7:57 AM – Astorga: sunrise from our hotel room.
We got up early and ate the breakfast buffet (included) at Hotel Astvr Plaza and saved hojaldres (we still had mantedadas from Thursday) and made sandwiches for lunch. We departed at 8:20 am.
8:17 AM – Astorga: Hotel Astvr Plaza – Receptionist Ana, who had been very helpful; boxes of mantecadas and hojaldres on shelf behind desk.
8:27 AM – Astorga: Hojaldres de Astorga sign outside store near Cathedral.
8:27 AM – Astorga: mantecadas sign at same store near Cathedral.
Near the Cathedral, we looked for the Casa del Sacristán, which we had missed the day before.
8:30 AM – Astorga: sacristan’s house near Cathedral.
The Casa del Sacristán (Sacristan’s House) is located across the Plaza de la Catedral opposite the cathedral façade. It is a unique example of domestic housing of the 17th and 18th centuries. The Sacristan of the Cathedral, one of the charges of the Cathedral Chapter (Cabildo), along with servants and family members, lived here. It is now the headquarters of Associación de Amigos de la Catedral, but is also open to visitors.
8:30 AM – Astorga: sign “Casa del Sacristán” (17th-18th centuries), on sacristan’s house near Cathedral.
As we left Astorga, we were heading into the mountains (a welcome relief after the meseta). As far as the Cruz de Ferro, we would still be in the Maragatería.
By the time we reached the Ermita del Ecce Homo near Valdeviejas (pop 145), 7 km from Astorga, around 8:55, Don had an urgent need for a baño. The lady with the sello at the chapel said to go into town to the albergue on the left; we tried the second door and saw no one inside but found the baño; MT explained to the man who came later.
8:59 AM – Near Valdeviejas: Ermita del Ecce Homo chapel (MT ready to cross road to try albergue).
The current Ermita del Ecce Homo dates from the 16th century, when it was built next to an old well, and was originally dedicated to San Pedro (St. Peter). However, according to legend, a woman who was heading to Santiago de Compostela stopped at the well to fetch water, and unfortunately her son fell into the well. When the mother prayed to Ecce Homo, the water began to rise, saving the boy. Therefore, the name of the shrine changed to Ecce Homo. The chapel was rebuilt in the 18th-19th century.
Valdeviejas is known for being the place of origin of the Pico Garbanzo Pardal, without which the famous cocido maragato would not be the same, because this garbanzo gives it its characteristic flavor and texture.
8:58 AM – Near Valdeviejas: Ermita del Ecce Homo; English part of sign, next to fountain, reads: “The faith, fountain of health.”
9:15 AM – Near Ermita del Ecce Homo: camino marker showing route from Astorga to El Ganso.
After Ermita del Ecce Homo, the Camino followed a gravel senda alongside the highway for another 2 km until we reached Murias de Rechivaldo (pop 94).
Murias de Rechivaldo is a Maragato town that supplied carters and pack-mule trains to the region. The origin of the peculiar name comes from the word muria, which was a milestone (or pile of stones) that the ancient Asturian tribes used to delimit territories. Rechivaldo was almost certainly the name of a noble Visigoth landowner in this area, which would be the border of the Asturian tribe amacos. Therefore, it was known as “the border of Rechivaldo.”
According to oral history, Rechivaldo was a Visigoth who came to this area fleeing Arab domination. He married the daughter of a wealthy landowner and inherited the land. Don Pelayo* had him launch an offensive against the Moors, since this place was a gateway to the northwest and served as a barrier to prevent the Arabs from entering it. So great was his defense and courage that these lands became known as the “land of Rechivaldo,” and “From Murias de Rechivaldo” became a motto for the Christian Reconquest.
*Don Pelayo (Pelagius of Asturias, ca. 685-737) was the exiled Visigoth nobleman who founded the Kingdom of Asturias in 718 and is credited with beginning the Reconquista. Pelayo had been defeated in a battle against invading Moors who were allied with the corrupt Visigoth king who had killed Pelayo’s father. After this defeat, Pelayo had to flee to Asturias, where he continued to resist the corrupt regime and the Moors. He led a revolt of Asturians and Visigothic refugees against the Moorish governor of the area. His natural leadership, his fame as a fearless warrior, and his rank as a prince of royal lineage attracted many Catholics who wished to combat the invaders. They gathered around Pelayo and proclaimed him King of Asturias in 718. After a major victory against the Moors in 722, he became an important symbol of Christian resistance in medieval Spanish history and literature.
Murias de Rechivaldo: Iglesia de San
Esteban, showing upper part of stairs to belfry and entrance with porch (http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6080/6079861247_7a99be42ee.jpg).
The 18th-century neo-classical Iglesia de San Esteban has a belfry typical of the area. There is an external staircase that leads to the belfry, which is a common feature in this area. [Interestingly, this staircase leads to a “porch” on the outside wall of the belfry, rather than behind it, as if more often the case.] As is also quite common in many areas, more often than not there will be a stork’s nest on top of the belfry.
The door of the church is also protected by a porch. In a niche over the lintel of the door is a tiny image of the Virgen del Pilar (aka Nuestra Señora del Pilar, Our Lady of the Pillar), one of Spain’s patron saints. According to ancient Spanish tradition, in the early days of Christianity (40 AD), the Apostle James the Greater (Santiago) was preaching the Gospel in what was then the pagan land of Caesaraugusta (now Zaragosa), in the Roman province of Hispania. Disheartened by making only a few converts, he was praying when Mary miraculously appeared before him atop a pillar and accompanied by angels, assuring him that the people would eventually be converted and their faith would be as strong as the pillar on which she was standing.
From here, the Camino begins the gradual ascent to Foncebadón, which separates the regions of La Maragateria and El Bierzo. The landscape and townscapes began to change. The ground on these ridges is not very good for agriculture. So the main thing was to raise sheep and cows, the reason for the many stone corrals along the road. These were the first stone walls seen since before Burgos. The villages, too, are made of stone. The low stone houses (casas teitadas = thatched houses, of Celtic roots) have roofs of locally mined slate, although some originally had thatched roofs. Windows in these houses were small to preserve heat, Overhanging balconies protect the doorways from summer sun and winter rains and snows. Often a large stone set by the front door serves as a bench.
After Murias de Rechivaldo, we had the option of continuing along the highway to Castrillo de Polvazares (another traditional Maragato village) or taking a dirt track directly to Santa Catalina de Somoza. We chose the latter.
9:51 AM - After Murias de Rechivaldo: MT on gravel path by dirt road.
10:14 AM - After Murias de Rechivaldo: MT on gravel path by road (biker on road).
10:20 AM - After Murias de Rechivaldo: MT on gravel path by road (overtaking another pilgrim); Santa Catalina de Somoza in distance.
10:28 AM – Near Santa Catalina de Somoza: another camino marker (same as near Ermita Ecce Homo); pilgrims picking berries; church in distance.
Around 10:30, we reached Santa Catalina de Somoza (pop 49), 5 km past Murias de Rechivaldo and 9 km from Astorga.
Santa Catalina de Somoza is another typical Maragato village of the region, in its layout, its typical houses of arrieros [muleteers], and in its small population. In bygone days, it supported a pilgrim hospital, Hospital de Yuso, the ruins of which are still visible in the place known as Huerta del Hospital [Orchard of the Hospital], the name by which the town was known in the Middle Ages. Then it took the name of Santa Catalina, since that was the original name of the church, dedicated to St. Catherine of Alexandria, around which the village revolved. However, the parish church is now dedicated to Santa María. As with many villages in this area, it bears the suffix Somoza, from the Latin sub montia (under [on the slopes of] the mountain). In Roman times, this name was given to the region at the foot of the great Asturian mountain Teleno, and the region became known as La Somoza. (Calling it the Maragatería is a relatively modern invention.)
Already in 1447, the village had another pilgrim hospital known as Virgen de las Candelas, of which nothing remains.
The town is a clear example of the pueblo-camino (town road) built around one main street, the Calle Real.
As a result of depopulation in the 20th century, farms around the town have crumbling stone walls and abandoned buildings. However, the increasing pilgrim flow has provided an economic boost. From here on, pilgrims will see simple and primitive houses, sometimes covered with slate roofs or even thatch.
10:31 AM - Santa Catalina de Somoza: sign for “Hay Cocido Maragato” and pilgrim figure outside restaurant.
The parish church Iglesia de Santa María, dating from 1708, houses a relic of San Blas, the patron of the town. (Brierley erroneously assumes that the church, like the albergue in the town, is named San Blas, because of the relic.) The church has a belfry and a porch over the entrance, both typical of the area.
10:34 AM - Santa Catalina de Somoza: Iglesia de Santa María - main altar.
10:34 AM - Santa Catalina de Somoza: Iglesia de Santa María – San Roque on (left) side altar.
We got sellos in the church: “Parroquia de Santa Catalina de Somoza.”
In Santa Catalina de Somoza, we stopped at Albergue Bar Hospedería San Blas, where we ate our mantecadas and hojaldres; the owner’s father had passed out raspberries as we entered town and told pilgrims to go to the 2nd bar.
10:49 AM - Santa Catalina de Somoza: Albergue Bar Hospedería San Blas (MT at our table at left).
On our way out of town, we saw a group of mostly elderly bikers, who stopped at their support van and loaded their bicycles onto a trailer. The elderly man in the white shirt and orange helmet told us they had started in Bilbao. They apparently ride bikes part of the way and then ride in the van.
1102 AM - Santa Catalina de Somoza: elderly bikers and their support van.
The Terranova Touristik firm, based in Frankfurt, organizes bicycle tours and trips in Germany, Europe, and worldwide.
11:03 AM - Santa Catalina de Somoza: elderly bikers and their Terranova support van with the motto “Romantisch reisen” [travel romantically].
11:34 AM – Leaving Santa Catalina de Somoza: Camino markers; one in foreground spray-painted “Ánimo” (Courage); marker behind it is same as at Ermita Ecce Homo and before Santa Catalina.
After Santa Catalina de Somoza, the Camino again followed a gravel senda next to the highway.
We reached El Ganso (pop 47) around 11:50.
El Ganso means the goose (or possibly a dope or dullard). This is the first of several semi-abandoned Maragato villages we passed through in the relatively solitary mountains. In 1142, El Ganso had a small church and a pilgrim hospital, Hospital de San Justo, run by Cluniac Benedictines. A small monastery was founded in 1243. Nothing remains of either.
Many of the houses in El Ganso were casas teitadas (houses with thatched roofs), an indication of Celtic roots, as a prelude to the similar indigenous construction of pallozas in El Bierzo and Galicia. Some of the houses in El Ganso still have the traditional thatched roofs. Unfortunately, many of these are being replaced with roof tiles, which are much easier to maintain.
We stopped for sellos at the Mesón Cowboy (Cowboy Bar), but MT heard or saw something about another bar further into town.
11:54 AM – El Ganso: Bar Mesón Cowboy exterior with terraza to left and sign on right for “Sello Real” (a royal seal?).
11:54 AM – El Ganso: Bar Mesón Cowboy entrance.
11:58 AM – El Ganso: Bar Mesón Cowboy interior, where we went for sello.
12:01 PM – El Ganso: Iglesia de Santiago with “porch” on back of bell tower.
The current church, Iglesia de Santiago, is dedicated to Santiago and has a 16th-century statue of the saint. In the atrium of this church, there is a small chapel known as Capilla del Cristo de los Peregrinos[Chapel of the Christ of Pilgrims]. According to ancient local legend, the Apostle James himself celebrated masses here. Built into an exterior wall is a medieval cross-shaped funeral stone, possibly from a pilgrim cemetery near the village.
Almost at the far end of town, we saw a sign for a tienda (store), which had tables with umbrellas outside. Don suggested that MT ask for a carton of gazpacho (like we had seen in a supermercado earlier); she came back with 2 cartons (1€ each) and later went back for a third to go with our sandwiches from the breakfast buffet.
12:07 PM – El Ganso: cartons that filled our glasses with gazpacho, and Don’s sandwich (ham and cheese on toast).
As the Camino path climbs higher along ridges, the vegetation changes to scrub oak, heather, broom, and wild thyme. A little higher, the harsh climate eliminates the trees altogether, leaving only scratchy, nearly impenetrable brush. The rocky soil is now laced with hunks of white quartz.
12:57 PM – After El Ganso: heather along path.
Just before entering Rabanal del Camino, we passed the Ermita del Bendito Cristo de la Vera Cruz.
1:57 PM – Approaching Rabanal del Camino: approaching Ermita del Bendito Cristo de la Vera Cruz, with Rabanal ahead through trees.
The 18th-century Baroque Ermita del Bendito Cristo de la Vera Cruz (aka Ermita del Santo Cristo de la Vera Cruz), inside which a magnificent image of the crucified Christ is venerated. Today, the chapel presides over the cemetery.
1:59 PM – Approaching Rabanal del Camino: MT passing Ermita del Bendito Cristo de la Vera Cruz - cemetery wall on N side and back of church.
2:01 PM – Approaching Rabanal del Camino: Ermita del Bendito Cristo de la Vera Cruz – façade with bell tower.
We arrived in Rabanal del Camino (pop 50) around 2 pm.
The first references to the existence of Rabanal del Camino date back to legendary events such as the wedding of Anseȉs, a knight of Charlemagne, with a Saracen princess in the 8th century. For certain, the village has a centuries-old tradition of caring for pilgrims before they take the steep path up and over Monte Irago. The Knights Templar are thought to have maintained a garrison here as early as the 12th century, to protect pilgrims crossing the pass over Monte Irago (Puerto Irago 1,505 m) to Ponferrada. Rabanal may have served as an outpost for the Templar Knights of Ponferrada. It was referenced as “Raba Nalles” in the early 11th century. By 1120, Aymeric Pucaud included it in the Codex Calixtinus as the end of the stage of the Camino that begins in Astorga. Traditionally, it was the last stopping-off point before the wearisome crossing of the Montes de León, which was dangerous because of wolves and bandits. The Templars reputedly built the parish church Iglesia de Santa María de la Asunción. Between the 16th and 19th centuries, Rabanal was one of the most famous villages of the Maragatería, with muleteers of great importance that made fortunes. They brought salted fish from the Galician coast to the interior and returned loaded with sausages and dry products. More than half the residents were involved in this activity. Their business began to decline with the arrival of the railroad in Astorga in 1866. This must have been a much larger town in the Middle Ages, since it has three churches.
Like many other villages in this area, including Santa Catalina de Somoza, Rabanal del Camino is a pueblo-calle (road town) laid out along a main east-west street called Calle Real, which coincides with the Camino route. In Rabanal, the street is cobblestone.
We first tried Hostal El Refugio (where we had stayed last year) but the lady said they were completo (full). We went farther past the church to Posada Gaspar, which wanted 50€ for a double room without breakfast (and MT didn’t like the man’s attitude). So we headed back toward Posada Tesin, which we had passed at the beginning of town, but on the way we saw Hosteria A Cruz de Ferro (the map entering town called it a Casa Rural) with a double room with bath for 45€ plus 5€ each for breakfast (she took cash). The ground floor of this place was also a tienda (grocery store); so MT bought 2 bananas (but the next morning she said there was no charge for those). The lady (Miriam) also washed our clothes and hung them on her portable clothesline (in front of the store) for no charge. She also gave us sellos.
3:06 PM – Rabanal del Camino: Hospedería A Cruz de Ferro – exterior (our window at top right).
2:34 PM – Rabanal del Camino: Hospedería A Cruz de Ferro – our room (Santa Columba) with 4 beds and window to S.
2:36 PM – Rabanal del Camino: Hospedería A Cruz de Ferro - our room (Santa Columba) with 4 beds and MT in door to bathroom.
2:35 PM – Rabanal del Camino: Hospedería A Cruz de Ferro – view from our window to S; ruined house wall across street and mountains in distance.
3:03 PM – Rabanal del Camino: Hospedería A Cruz de Ferro – door to our room (Sta. Columba) with padlock, since regular door lock didn’t work.
3:05 PM – Rabanal del Camino: Hospedería A Cruz de Ferro – view down stairs to tienda by entrance.
After showering, we went back up the Calle Real to the Iglesia de Santa María de la Asunción on the tiny town square.
3:09 PM – Rabanal del Camino: Iglesia de Santa María – MT approaching church from rear, with “porch” and clock on back of belfry.
The Iglesia de Santa María de la Asunción* was begun in the 12th century (reputedly built by the Knights Templar coming from Ponferrada). It retains its Romanesque semicircular apse with three flared windows, despite having been extensively remodeled in the 18th century (north door and sacristy) and 19th century (roof). The roughly decorated south door to the sacristy, recently discovered under its thick coat of plaster, probably once connected to the residence of the Templars that was attached to the church. The church contains a 12th-century image of San Blas and 18th-century altarpieces. The main altarpiece is Rococo, made in 1784. It has a belfry, from the 17th-18th century, that is typical of this area, in that it is not really a tower, but just a thick wall. There are steps leading up the back side (roof side) of that wall to the belfry at its top, which has the typical “porch.” What is unique about this tower is the clock, also on its back side. It was donated to the church in 1882 by a native of Rabanal who had made a name for himself as a clockmaker in Madrid.
Today, an order of monks originating from Bavaria has again taken up residence in a building on the square, and the church, now restored, is once again resounding to the sound of Gregorian chant and Latin Vespers at 7 pm each evening, with a pilgrim blessing offered by the Benedictine missionary monks of the Monasterio de San Salvador del Monte Irago established here in 2001.
*Although Brierley and CSJ guide books both refer to this as Iglesia de Santa María, the brochure on Rabanal del Camino from Junta de Castilla y León Turismo calls it Iglesia Parroquial de la Asunción, and the town’s own website calls it “la Iglesia Parroquial de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción o Santa María.” The guidebook by Gitlitz and Davidson calls it Santa María de la Asunción, which is probably the most correct.
4:39 PM – Rabanal del Camino: Iglesia de Santa María – façade and belfry from front (view from El Refugio).
4:35 PM – Rabanal del Camino: Restaurante-Hostal El Refugio – exterior (entrance).
Since it was still in the 2-4 pm “lunch” time, we went back to Restaurante-Hostal El Refugio for the 18€ cocido maragato we had seen on their sign. We split ONE (which the waiter correctly said was a lot of food) and ordered red wine (when the pitcher ran out, MT ordered another one, but we were charged only 2.50€ for one “jarra vino pequeña” [small pitcher of wine]). We also ordered ice cream for dessert (1.80€) for a total of 22.30€. We paid with our Capital One card.
Restaurante-Hostal El Refugio, like other restaurants in Rabanal, is in a refurbished old Maragato house. In this case, the Hostal Rural with rustic décor is in a former barn where cattle and sheep were kept, along with the grass and hay to feed them.
3:27 PM – Rabanal del Camino: Restaurante-Hostal El Refugio – our cocido maragato on tray; we split it.
3:59 PM – Rabanal del Camino: Restaurante-Hostal El Refugio – MT with soup that came at the END of the cocido maragato; and our (very full) wine glasses.
Brierley says: “Try some if the local cuisine cocido maragato which starts with a hearty stew meat, usually pork, and black pudding with beans and cabbage followed by vegetables and finished off with a bowl of broth.” [Ayuntamiento de Astorga brochure said (translated): In Astorga is typical to eat the Cocido Maragato, consisting of seven meats, chickpeas and cabbage, soup and custard for dessert. You can taste it in almost all the restaurants in the city.] In our case, the soup had short pieces of spaghetti, which is typical.
At 7 pm, we went to Iglesia Santa María de la Asunción for vespers with the German Benedictine (missionary) monks. It was in Latin but we each had a booklet with parallel English text.
4:34 PM – Rabanal del Camino: Iglesia de Santa María – façade, bell tower with “porch” on back; Hostal-Restaurante El Refugio across street behind church; entrance for Vespers was on near (S) side of church, to right behind tree.
4:26 PM – Rabanal del Camino: Iglesia de Santa María – Vespers schedule and Pilgrim’s Greeting in several languages posted outside S entrance.
“The Benedictine Monastery of Monte Irago at Rabanal is part of the Missionary Benedictine Congregation of St. Ottilien in Bavaria. The monks care for guests according to the ancient Benedictine tradition of hospitality which calls on monasteries to care for strangers and pilgrims. ‘Let all kindness be shown to the guests’ wrote St. Benedict († 543) in his rule which Benedictines follow to this day.
“All pilgrims are invited to join the prayers which mark the daily rhythm of our monastery. After evening and night prayers a monk is available in the church to listen to you or to hear your confession. At night prayer the blessing of pilgrims takes place. We are happy to stamp your Credencial in the small shop in front of the church.
“Between May and October we offer pilgrims who want to pause on their pilgrimage the opportunity to stay in our pilgrim house ‘Mater Salutis’ for a few days of rest and reflection, and of prayer and reading. These days are normally spent in the company of a small group of pilgrims and members of the monastic community.
“The Monks of Rabanal”.
4:30 PM – Rabanal del Camino: Iglesia de Santa María - interior, view from rear to altar (better light on crucifix over altar) with choir stalls on sides (for monks).
4:32 PM – Rabanal del Camino: Iglesia de Santa María – crucifix over main altar (telephoto, 64 mm).
4:31 PM – Rabanal del Camino: Iglesia de Santa María – Paschal candle and baptismal from (near entrance).
Across the courtyard to the south of the church was the Monasterio San Salvador del Monte Irago.
4:36 PM – Rabanal del Camino: Monasterio San Salvador del Monte Irago across from S entrance to Iglesia de Santa María.
The Monasterio de San Salvador del Monte Irago was established here in 2001. They have an adjoining retreat house for up to 10 pilgrims who wish to stay for a minimum of 2 nights or up to 5. (MT considered staying, but Don wanted to stay on the Camino; he suggested she could take a bus and meet him farther on, but she didn’t want to separate.)
Over the door on the façade of the monastery is a statue of a young St. Benedict, wearing the monastic habit and an abbot’s staff in the other. The Latin inscription below the figure of St. Benedict, from a Gregorian antiphon, reads: “Sancti estis dicit dominus et multiplicabo numerum vestrum ut oretis pro populo meo in loco isto” translates: “Be holy, says the Lord and may your numbers be increased in order to pray for my people in this place.” The keystone of the arch over the entrance is sculpted with a replica of the Mozárabic Cross of the Monasterio de San Pedro de las Montes.
1625 Friday, September 12, 2014, 436 PM – Rabanal del Camino: Refugio Guacelmo to left (east) of monastery.
To the left (east) of the monastery was the Refugio Guacelmo. We originally understood that this was the Benedictine guest house. However, it is run by the Confraternity of St. James and predates the monastery.
In 1991, the British Confraternity of St. James, in association with the El Bierzo association of Friends of the Camino, converted the old parish house for use as a hostel, the Refugio Guacelmo. In 2001, Benedictine monks established the Monasterio Benedictino de San Salvador del Monte Irago next door to Refugio Gaucelmo.
4:37 PM – Rabanal del Camino: “chubby” Santiago Peregrino statue on Refugio Guacelmo.
After Vespers, we talked in German with a 71-year-old monk who operated the gift shop (with sello) and also served as gardener. Our sellos said: “Monasterio Benedictino San Salvador del Monte Irago.”
Then, after dropping MT off at the Hostería a Cruz del Ferro, Don looked around the town some more.
4:40 PM – Rabanal del Camino: old stone wall, building, and tower on street going S from Hostería a Cruz del Ferro.
4:41 PM – Rabanal del Camino: old stone tower (close up).
4:47 PM – Rabanal del Camino: view (from near stone tower) back up street to Hostería a Cruz del Ferro; Capilla de San José to right.
4:46 PM – Rabanal del Camino: Hostería a Cruz del Ferro exterior (view from corner); at far right corner of hostería is our laundry drying; beyond that is Iglesia de San José.
4:48 PM – Rabanal del Camino: Capilla de San José exterior (from near hostería).
The 1733 Churrigueresque Capilla de San José (aka Ermita de San José), on the Calle Real, has an altarpiece that is presided over by an image of Santiago and also contains an image of Santa Bárbara. The chapel was commissioned by the famous muleteer José Calvo, who is buried in it with his family. The magnificent Baroque altarpiece is an indication of the wealth of the muleteers in the 18th century.
4:48 PM – Rabanal del Camino: Capilla de San José - façade and (open) entrance.
4:48 PM – Rabanal del Camino: Capilla de San José – main altar and two side altars (taken through iron gate).
4:48 PM PM – Rabanal del Camino: Capilla de San José – main altar (Cropped).
4:49 PM – Rabanal del Camino: Capilla de San José – Santiago Peregrino at top of main altar (telephoto, 186 mm).
4:51 PM – Rabanal del Camino: view from Capilla de San José back toward Hospedería a Cruz del Ferro (in center).
4:52 PM – Rabanal del Camino: Hospedería a Cruz del Ferro with our laundry hanging at near corner (our window at top right); Casa de las Cuatro Esquinas just down street to left.
On the Calle Real, just across the intersection (with Calle de Abajo) to the west of Hostería a Cruz del Ferro, is the Casa de las Cuatro Esquinas.
The Casa de las Cuatro Esquinas [House of the Four Corners], where King Felipe II is said to have stayed on his pilgrimage to Santiago in 1554. This stands on the former site of the ancient Hospital de San Gregorio (also called Guacelmo for the hermit who developed monasticism in these mountains in the 11th and 12 century), in which Aymeric Picaud stayed in the 12th century.
4:52 PM – Rabanal del Camino: Hospedería a Cruz del Ferro – sign for Tienda (prices for rooms are blank or faded out).
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