We
again ate the grand buffet breakfast at Hospedería
San Martín Pinario (5€ each): we chose same food as last time, except no
grapes. We met and shared a table with Maria from Ireland, who had told us
about this place and had a room there at the 20€ pilgrim rate (MT thinks that
included breakfast, since guests only had to give their room numbers to the
waiter). Maria (probably in her 60s) said she had averaged about 40 km per day,
and she had already been to Muxía and back, She also recommended Albergue El
Carmen in Negreira, saying it was 10€
for a room (clean and quiet, with a shower) and had a restaurant with a 10€
menu starting at 7 pm. We got sellos: “San Martín Pinario – Hospedería,
Seminario Mayor.”
9:11 AM – Santiago: Hospedería San Martín
Pinario – Maria from Ireland and Don at our table.
We
went back to Pensión Girasol with MT
following the directions Don had given her for getting from Girasol to San
Martín/Cathedral and back (to make sure she could do it on her own).
At
9:45, we said good-bye, and Don went to Praza do Obradoiro to start for Muxía.
MT
checked emails.
Around
10:30, MT went to the Cathedral to
try to get a good seat for the pilgrim mass at noon; she got a good place up in
front of the main altar. However, the botafumeiro
was not used at this mass.
MT 11:33 AM – Santiago Cathedral: near main
altar?
MT 11:08 AM – Santiago Cathedral: view from
front of north transept across main alter to opposite transept; botafumeiro hanging in center.
MT 11:33 AM – Santiago Cathedral: dome (over
main altar) with pulley for botafumeiro.
MT 12:47 PM – Santiago Cathedral: main altar
(from MT’s seat up front).
MT 12:56 PM – Santiago Cathedral: Portico de
Gloria center column.
MT 12:58 PM – Santiago Cathedral: Portico de
Gloria center column. (closer up).
After
mass, MT had an ice cream cone before going back to Pensión Girasol to get her
things.
After
3 pm, MT walked to the bus station
(as we had practiced) and took the bus to Muxía at 4:45 pm.
MT 3:25 PM – Santiago: bus station interior.
In
Muxía, we had agreed that our first choice on the lodging list would be A de
Lolo-Hotel de Encanto. However, not finding it, MT went to our second choice, Hostal La Cruz, which was right on the
water with a great view. She got a single-occupancy room for 40€ and told the
owner that Don would be joining her after walking for 4 days; the owner said
she would keep the price the same for the whole time (she didn’t change the
rate when Don arrived a day earlier than planned). MT cancelled her original
reservation.
MT 6:47 PM – Muxía: Hostal La Cruz – view of
the port.
MT 8:28 PM – Muxía: Hostal La Cruz – view of
the port.
MT 8:37 PM – Muxía: Hostal La Cruz – sunset
over the water.
MT
had a fabulous 12€ merluza dinner at Hostal La Cruz. The pimientos (peppers) of the 1st course were super as well. The lady
gave her a whole bottle of wine.
Then
MT enjoyed the smell of the ocean outside her window and listened to the thunderous
roar of the crashing waves.
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