We ate breakfast at a bar across the street from the Municipal Albergue; 6.90€ for coffee/orange juice and 2 tostadas con tomate y aciete. We added 2 bocadillos for 2€ each and Rioja wine 1€ something.
9:10 AM – Burgos: bar across from Albergue – kitchen area behind bar; picture on wall to right was same as view down Calle Fernán González thru window at left (overexposed here).
9:10 AM – Burgos: bar across from Albergue – view out window view down Calle Fernán González (telephoto, 186 mm) was same as picture on wall next to window.
We departed Burgos center at 9:20 am. On the way out of town, a man in a bar came out and told us we had missed a turn.
Still on Calle Fernán González, we passed the Arco de Fernán González.
9:25 AM – Burgos: Arco de Fernán González on way out of town, after Cathedral.
The Arco de Fernán González is a great triumphal arch in the sober Herrerian style. It was built between 1584 and 1587 at the initiative of the City Council on the site of the ancestral home [solar] of Fernán González, the first independent count of Castile (932-970). It was located on the old Calle Tenebregosa, now renamed Calle Fernán González. It consists of two large bodies. The first has a large arch flanked by two Tuscan columns. The second body displays the royal coats of arms, as well as those of Burgos and Castile, and a plaque with a Latin inscription that translates: “To Fernán González, count of Castile, the greatest leader and defender of his time, parent of great kings; erected by his compatriots on the site of his house by public initiative, this monument rises to his memory and eternal glory.” Above that is a lintel attic topped with a classical pediment; a statue of the count was planned to be placed in the opening.
A little later, still on Calle Fernán González, we passed the Solar del Cid.
9:30 AM – Burgos: Solar del Cid (Antiguo Seminario Mayor in background).
The Solar del Cid is a monument built in 1784 on the spot where, according to tradition, the ancestral home of this hero was located. On the central part, below the coat of arms attributed to El Cid, is the inscription, which translates: “On this site was the home of Rodrigo Diaz de Bivar, called El Cid Campeador, born in the year 1026. He died in Valencia in 1099 and his body was taken to the Monastery of San Pedro de Cardeña around that city. In order to perpetuate the memory of such a noble place of birth of one of its sons and a hero of Burgos, this monument was erected over the ancient ruins in the year 1784 in the reign of Carlos III.” Flanking that monolith are two other obelisks, with the coats of arms of Burgos and San Pedro de Cardeña.
Crossing the Río Arlanzón, we continued through the park Parque el Parral, at the far end of which was a statue of San Amaro de Peregrino, near the 12th-century Hospital del Rey (King’s Hospital).
9:49 AM – Burgos: statue of San Amaro de Peregrino.
On the statue of San Amaro de Peregrino, a plaque reads: “Cuando el viaje llegue a su fin saldrá la estrella de la tarde y las armonías del crepusculo se abrirán ante el Portico del Rey.” [When the journey comes to an end, the evening star will appear, and the harmonies of twilight will be opened before the Gate of the King.] San Amaro Peregrino was born in France in the 13th century. He made a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela and on his return settled permanently in the city of Burgos, devoting the rest of his life to caring for poor and sick pilgrims who arrived at Hospital del Rey on the west side of the city. This saint is venerated in Burgos where he is buried.
Beyond the end of Burgos, we passed near the State Prison.
10:15 AM – past Burgos: State Prison.
The Centro Penetenciario Burgos, aka Prisión Central de Burgos, was originally built under General Franco in 1932 to house political prisoners and social misfits.
Around Villalbilla (de Burgos) (pop 651), a local lady on a bicycle told us to ignore signs and go through a road construction area, since there were no workers on Sunday, and under the A-33 highway toward Tardajos.
We stopped in Tardajos (pop 700) at 11:50 for baño and vino at Restaurante-Bar Ruiz. We also got sellos: “Hostal Ruiz,” although the sign above identified the lodging part as “Pensión Mary.” We departed at 12:20.
11:37 AM – Tardajos: monument with Camino map.
11:57 AM – Tardajos: Restaurante-Bar Ruiz – MT at outside table.
Around 12:45, we reached Rabé de las Calzadas (pop 190).
Rabé de las Calzadas was not always called by that name, but only in recent times. The name is of unknown origin, although there are several theories. Some say it comes from Rabi (rabbi, which in Judaism means “teacher”), from the fact that there used to be a Jewish colony in the town before the expulsion of the Moors from Spain. Others say it means Ribera (shore) and even Fortaleza (fortress). The most credible is the opinion that the name Rabé had its origin during the medieval repopulation of these lands, and it may well be the name the one who was responsible for the repopulation or be the name of the place where he was born or lived. The first use of the name Rabé dates back to 946, but at that time it did not appear with the suffix “de las Calzadas” [of the roadways]. That adjective comes from the Roman period, when not one but several roads crossed this place. Deobrigula (meaning “city of the gods”) was an important Roman city that, according to some was located in Tarjados, but, according to others in Rabé. Documents from 949 indicate that the medieval town of Rabé was defended by a castle and had three churches (Santa María, San Martín, and San Juan de Rabé). No trace of those remains today. However, the 13th-century Iglesia de Santa Mariña may have built over one of the primitive churches. The castle protected the inhabitants of the town during the Reconquista, but was completely destroyed in the 16th century.
12:46 PM - Rabé de las Calzadas: Iglesia de Santa Mariña as we entered town (telephoto, 186 mm).
12:48 PM - Rabé de las Calzadas: multiple signs (for albergues, bars, and museum), but spray-painted yellow arrows point the direction of the Camino; Iglesia de Santa Mariña in background.
12:48 PM (Paint) - Rabé de las Calzadas: multiple signs (for albergues, bars, and museum), but spray-painted yellow arrows and “Camino” (see red circle) point the direction of the Camino.
12:53 PM - Rabé de las Calzadas: house in center of town, next to apse of church, with window flowers.
12:52 PM - Rabé de las Calzadas: fountain, with scallop shell motif, behind church and near that house; we refilled our water bottles here.
12:55 PM - Rabé de las Calzadas: Iglesia de Santa Mariña - end with bell tower.
The 13th-century Iglesia de Santa Mariña has been much reformed, but retains a Gothic portal from the 13th century.
The Hospital de Peregrinos Santa Mariña y Santiago was built as El Catastro del Marqués de la Ensenada in 1752, and has offered hospitality to pilgrims since 1819. Since 2000, it has been restored as an albergue to receive pilgrims going to Compostela.
0797a Rabé de las Calzadas: Iglesia de Santa Mariña - side with Gothic portal (www.jacobeo.net).
12:56 PM - Rabé de las Calzadas: view back to Iglesia de Santa Mariña from Plaza Francisco Ribera; another fountain in flower garden in middle of this square; behind the fountain is Hospital de Peregrinos Santa Mariña y Santiago.
Just out the end of the village of Rabé de las Calzadas, we passed the small Ermita de Nuestra Señora de Monasterio.
The Ermita de Nuestra Señora de Monasterio, in Renaissance style, is the only one left of the three that were mentioned in the Episcopal visits of the 18th century. The image of the Virgin venerated in it was formerly in the Monastery.
12:59 PM - Rabé de las Calzadas: Ermita de Nuestra Señora de Monasterio.
12:59 PM - Rabé de las Calzadas: Ermita de Nuestra Señora de Monasterio – door of hermitage.
After Rabé de las Calzadas, there was a long climb up to the Meseta.
Although Spain is the second most mountainous country in Europe, about 40 % of the country is made up of a high central plateau (Meseta Central) ranging from 400 to 1000 m in elevation. A large part of that, called Submeseta Norte (North Submeseta), is in Castilla y León, and we would begin to cross it between Rabé de las Calzadas and the border between the provinces of Burgos and Palencia. The Meseta is largely treeless and windblown and is blistering hot in the summer. Later, we would pass through more of the Submeseta Norte, stretching all the way through the province of León until the El Bierzo region.
1:08 PM – Entering the Meseta: MT on path with field of small sunflowers.
1:31 PM – Meseta: Camino signs and arrows near oasis with fountain (Fuente de Praotorre).
1:31 PM (Cropped) – Meseta: Camino signs with shells and arrows near oasis with fountain (Fuente de Praotorre); in this view, you can see stacks of large hay bales in background.
1:53 PM – Meseta: view back to Rabé de las Calzadas.
2:03 PM – Meseta: plowed field with gray soil and many rocks.
2:03 PM – Meseta: close-up of rocky in plowed field (telephoto, 220 mm).
After the Alto de Meseta (950 m), we began a steep descent down the Cuesta Matamulas (Mulekiller Hill) to Hornillos del Camino.
2:09 PM – Near Hornillos del Camino: first sight of town (down Mulekiller Hill), horizontal.
2:09 PM – Near Hornillos del Camino: Mulekiller Hill, vertical.
2:09 PM – Near Hornillos del Camino: path at bottom of Mulekiller Hill (telephoto, 360 mm), with haystack on right.
2:11 PM – Near Hornillos del Camino: MT partway down Mulekiller Hill.
2:12 PM – Near Hornillos del Camino: Don partway down Mulekiller Hill.
2:13 PM – Near Hornillos del Camino: view from partway down Mulekiller Hill.
2:47 PM – Hornillos del Camino: Don at city limit sign.
2:47 PM – Hornillos del Camino: MT at city limit sign.
We arrived at the city limit of Hornillos del Camino (pop 100) around 2:45 pm.
Hornillos del Camino is first documented in the 9th century, because the defensive line of fortified towers of primitive Castile passed through there. This line of towers, built to contain the advance of the Muslims, went from Burgos, through Tardajos and Rabé de las Calzadas, and reached Castrojeriz. At that time, the town was called Forniellos, which means small kilns, in which pottery and tiles were baked. Alfonso VII gave the town to the Monastery of St. Denis in Paris, which then founded a dependent monastery governed by a French prior. In 1181, Alfonso VIII granted the monastery to the town of Hornillos. The town became best known for being crossed by the Camino de Santiago, hence the suffix “del Camino.” Over the years, up to three hospitals were created: one for lepers (San Lazaro), one for pilgrims (Santo Espiritu), and another, now lost. Today, they are all gone, except for the core of Santo Espiritu (Sancti Spiritus), which is preserved at the top of the village’s single street, Calle Real. The town is one of the most outstanding examples of a pueblo calle (town-street), with a single street.
At 2:50, we arrived at the grocery store across the street from Hostal (Casa Rural) De Sol a Sol. As in the previous year, the lady in the grocery store called the Consulta de Isar for us, and the owner came in a car to get us
2:51 PM – Hornillos del Camino: Hostal (Casa Rural) De Sol a Sol; sign on door said “Completo” (full).
2:51 PM – Hornillos del Camino: Alementación km 469 grocery store, across street from Hostal De Sol a Sol.
Isar is located 25 km west of Burgos and 1.5 km from Hornillos del Camino. The name comes from Yessar, meaning terrain abundant in yeso (gypsum). During the late Middle Ages and the Ancien Regime, Isar was part of the vast estates of the Marqueses de Aguilar de Campo.
Around 3 pm, we arrived in Isar (pop [last year we were told 50, but Google has 436 and so does www.pueblos-espana.org, apparently for the district of the same name), at La Consulta de Isar (Centro de Turismo Rural), where there were only 2 other guests, a French couple. We requested the same room (Rosas) with balcony where we had stayed last year. The rate had gone up to 50€, but he agreed to 49€, plus 12€ each for dinner and 6€ each for breakfast (total 85€). We got sellos there: “La Consulta de Isar www.hornilloslaconsulta.com Isar (Burgos)” which around the edge also said “Camino de Santiago – Hornillos del Camino” although the web site gives the address as Isar.
6:33 PM – Isar: Consulta de Isar (Centro de Turismo Rural) and Iglesia de San Martín.
5:57 PM – Isar: Consulta de Isar - front with our clothes on line behind rounded balcony; the 2 windows with railing are for our room.
5:57 PM – Isar: Consulta de Isar – corner with all three of our windows.
3:15 PM – Isar: Consulta de Isar – our room (Rosas).
3:15 PM – Isar: Consulta de Isar – our room (Rosas); rounded balcony at right.
3:16 PM – Isar: Consulta de Isar – view straight out from rounded balcony with Don’s clothesline.
4:48 PM – Isar: Consulta de Isar – view to left from rounded balcony; Iglesia de Santa María in distance (closed for repairs).
3:16 PM – Isar: Consulta de Isar – view from our window around the corner, including Iglesia de San Martín up the hill.
We showered, washed clothes, and hung them on the rounded balcony. Around 6 pm, we went out to see the town. MT soon returned to our room, while Don continued around town.
6:00 PM – Isar: MT on street up to Iglesia de San Martín.
The Iglesia de San Martín was built in the 12th century, but was much restored in the 14th century, replacing the Romanesque apse with a Gothic one. Other modifications, in the late-Gothic style, are from the late 15th or early 16th century. The magnificent main altarpiece was built between 1558 and 1564 and was gilded and painted in 1595; it fully embodies the Renaissance in a style called monumental romanismo, a term coined by followers of the style of Michelangelo in Rome. The other altarpieces range from Rococo to Churrigueresque. In 1742, the steeple tower replaced the old belfry. However, the primitive Romanesque portal dates to the late 12th century. A 12th-century crucifix was moved here from Iglesia de Santa María.
6:00 PM – Isar: MT continuing up street to Iglesia de San Martín.
Since we had a local lady give us a tour of the church in 2013, we did not ask for someone to unlock it again. [That is why some of the following photos are borrowed.]
6:09 PM – Isar: cross, Iglesia de San Martín, and fountain (1932).
6:10 PM – Isar: fountain “Año 1932.”
6:11 PM – Isar: sign for Calle de los Templarios.
The small Romanesque church of San Pedro (St. Peter) belonged to the Knights Templar in ancient times. Only the apse survives, the rest of the nave having been converted into a private home and a mechanic’s garage.
6:12 PM – Isar: Templar chapel dedicated to San Pedro – south side and apse.
6:13 PM – Isar: Templar chapel – north side and old stone wall.
Very close to both the Templar chapel and Iglesia de San Martín was another church, Iglesia de Santa María. In 2014, as in 2013, it was still closed for renovation postponed due to lack of funds.
Iglesia de Santa María was built around 1200 in Romanesque style and expanded in the Gothic period.
6:15 PM – Isar: Iglesia de Santa María – north side (with portal) and tower.
6:15 PM – Isar: Iglesia de Santa María – tower (tower of Iglesia de San Martín in background, left).
At the foot of a large hill northwest of town was a line of bodegas. The owner of Consulta de Isar said the wine produced there is "mal" (bad).
6:28 PM – Isar: bodegas NW of town, at base of large hill.
6:29 PM – Isar: close-up of some of those bodegas (telephoto, 360 mm).
By the time we reached Isar, the heels of Don’s Keen hiking shoes, bought just before this trip, had begun to wear through the outer layer.
3:46 PM – Isar: Don’s Keen shoes.
We ate dinner at Consulta de Isar: 1st course (no choice): potato and tuna soup (2 bowls each; MT said she remembered this from last year; so Don predicted a 2nd course of pork medallions, which is exactly what we got); 2nd course (no choice): pork medallions with lettuce salad with oil and vinegar; dessert: MT and the French couple has flan with whipped cream and chocolate drizzle; Don had aros con leche (rice pudding with some berry); red wine; water; bread.
7:36 PM – Isar: Consulta de Isar - MT with tuna and potato soup and wine.
8:07 PM – Isar: Consulta de Isar - Don’s rice pudding.
8:08 PM – Isar: Consulta de Isar - Don with his rice pudding and MT’s flan in foreground.
The owner of Consulta de Isar called places in Castrojeriz for us.
9:04 PM – Isar: view of sunset from Consulta de Isar.
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