We ate breakfast (5€ prepaid) at Taberna Los Templarios: coffee/hot chocolate; 2 orange juice; 2 tostadas con tomate y aciete. We departed at 7:25 am, still in the dark.
We had been concerned about finding out way out of Ponferrada, since we had got off the Camino route when passing through there last year and didn’t rejoin it until we were past the other end of the city. So we carefully followed the directions in the Brierley and CSJ guidebooks to the Pons Ferrata bridge and out of the old town. However, we stayed in the greater city until after 8:18, then went through a portal into an institutional area and something that looked like a university, with a soccer stadium. We followed other pilgrims all the way out of city and into the countryside. We met and spoke with some French, some Italian, some German, and some American people—all on their way to Santiago.
8:02 AM – Ponferrada: far end of city, still in dark.
8:09 AM – Ponferrada: MT on maple-shaded walk near “university” area.
8:18 AM – Ponferrada: modern-looking crucero at far end of “university” area; Santiago on one side (shown) and crucifix on other side.
Beyond Ponferrada, we continued through the El Bierzo region with its gently rolling hills and vineyards.
8:29 AM – Approaching Columbrianos: MT following other pilgrims on paved path with vineyard on right; Iglesia de San Esteban and cemetery in distance.
Eventually, still on a paved path, we came to Columbrianos (pop 1,546) around 8:30.
Columbrianos is about 2 km from the center of Ponferrada. This town is of pre-Roman origin, with the first known settlements around 700 BC; there were two pre-Roman castros (forts) near the town. According to historians, the name derives from Conimbriganos and refers to the origin of the settlers in the early years of the Reconquista, which could have been Portuguese from Coimbra. That Portuguese colony, it is said, was based in the area of the pre-Roman castro (now known as Los Campelines [the playgrounds]). However, another theory is that the name evolved to be related to the Latin word columba (dove), due to the abundance of palomas (doves) and palomares (dovecotes or columbaries = houses for doves or pigeons) in the area.* Others say it is related to the presence of Columban Fathers, common on the Camino de Santiago. Despite this, the oldest documented references to it as Columbrianos date from the years 923, 928, 1043, and 1081. Thus, it was one of the oldest towns in the El Bierzo region, long before what is now the city of Ponferrada.
*In English, another word for dovecote is columbary, from the Latin columbarium. Derived from columba, columbarium literally means dovecote, but has come to mean a vault with niches for urns of ashes from cremated bodies.
8:29 AM (Cropped) – Approaching Columbrianos: MT and other pilgrims on paved path approaching Iglesia de San Esteban and cemetery in distance.
8:33 AM – Columbrianos: city limit sign(s) and Camino marker.
8:30 AM – Columbrianos: Iglesia de San Esteban.
The Iglesia de San Esteban dates from 1778, and its belfry tower was rebuilt in 1948 after being struck by lightning and partially collapsing. This church is separated from the town, where one can find the chapel of San Blas.
8:39 AM – Columbrianos: light green pumpkins.
8:42 AM – Columbrianos: Ermita de San Blas y San Roque (note Camino arrows to left).
The Ermita de San Blas y San Roque, on the site of the original pilgrim hospices, is a small chapel with a colorful pilgrim mural. It has a Baroque relief of the Virgen de la Encina.
We arrived at Fuentesnuevas (pop 1,997 or 2,704) around 9:10.
Fuentesnuevas (or Fuentes Nuevas [New Fountains]) is about 4.5 km northwest from the center of Ponferrada. The town is of medieval origins.
9:10 AM – Fuentesnuevas: MT at Camino sign for Fuentesnuevas, with crucero in background.
9:10 AM – Fuentesnuevas: crucero (side with Santiago Peregrino).
9:11 AM – Fuentesnuevas: crucero (side with crucifix)
9:15 AM – Fuentesnuevas: metal Camino arrow on side of chapel Ermita del Divino Cristo, which we approached from behind.
It has the tiny 15th-century chapel Ermita del Divino Cristo (aka Ermita Santo Cristo, formerly Ermita de la Vera Cruz [Chapel of the True Cross]); the original chapel, dating from 1662, was totally lost and replaced by a new construction. It was a simple construction, made of mud and stone, all raseada [leveled off] with lime mortar. It had a small stone belfry with Campanin [possibly bell? or campanino = a kind of marble] and two openings, all of it raseada [leveled off] with no stones showing. The belfry was rebuilt very similar to the old one, with the same stones and keeping the same Campanin.
9:15 AM – Fuentesnuevas: chapel Ermita del Divino Cristo (front); sign over door: “Divino Cristo S. XV.”
9:17 AM – Fuentesnuevas: Ermita del Divino Cristo - pilgrims on metal gate outside door.
9:16 AM – Fuentesnuevas: MT and front of Ermita del Divino Cristo.
9:16 AM – Fuentesnuevas: old half-timbered building.
At the main parish church, variously called Iglesia de Santa María or Iglesia de la Asunción or Iglesia de Nuestra Señora or Iglesia de la Asunción de Nuestra Señora, we got sellos: “Camino de Santiago – Fuentesneuvas – Diocesis de Astorga” with figure of the Virgin Mary.
9:24 AM – Fuentesnuevas: Iglesia de Santa María [or Iglesia de la Asunción or Iglesia de Nuestra Señora] with “porch” on espadaña [bell gable]; blue Camino sign with yellow arrow to right.
The parish church is variously called Iglesia de Santa María or Iglesia de la Asunción or Iglesia de Nuestra Señora or Iglesia de la Asunción de Nuestra Señora. On the left side of the nave is a beautiful chapel with an altarpiece adorned with figures of the Assumption with a dreamy face (18th century), as well as San Francisco de Asis (St. Francis of Assisi) and San Esteban (St. Stephen). On the right side is a very delicate altarpiece of Nuestra Señora de las Candelas (Our Lady of the Candles).
9:29 AM – Fuentesnuevas: church where we got sellos – interior (rear to main altar).
9:29 AM – Fuentesnuevas: church where we got sellos – San Roque on left (south) side altar.
9:29 AM – Fuentesnuevas: church where we got sellos – San Roque on left (south) side altar (closer up).
In two different places during this morning, we saw rural and village people roasting fresh peppers over an open flame and peeling them as what we were told were pimientos asados del Bierzo [roasted peppers of El Bierzo]. Around Ponferrada, people began to cultivate peppers in the mid-17th century, due to the favorable climate of the region. In 1650 they were dried with the sun, and in 1669 people began to roast them, increasing consumption considerably. They became one of the symbols of El Bierzo. The birth of the first artisan canning industry occurred in 1818 in Villafranca del Bierzo. In recent decades, pepper production has been concentrated in the municipalities of Cacabelos, Camponaraya, and Carracedelo,
We arrived in the long, narrow village of Camponaraya (pop 3,226 or 4,230) around 9:45. First, we stopped 10 min at a supermercado for fruit and a loaf of warm bread (which we ate along the way).
9:48 AM – Camponaraya: city limit sign.
Camponaraya is one of the Galician-speaking municipalities of El Bierzo. Originally, there were two different settlements separated by the Arroyo Naraya or Barredos: CAMPO, located on the side of Cacabelos, and NARAYA, which is the older town of the two (already mentioned in the 9th century) and located on the side of Fuentesnuevas. In the 15th century, the two joined to form CAMPONARAYA. In the Middle Ages, it had two pilgrim hospitals.
10:14 AM – Camponaraya: unique clock tower.
On the way out of town, we stopped at the Cooperativa Viñas del Bierzo wine cooperative for wine tasting (1.50€ each for a small glass and a pincho de empenada); we also ate our bananas and used the baño, which was in the back of the building past the stainless steel vine vats. We had a very pleasant experience there (unlike last year).
10:28 AM – Camponaraya: approaching Viñas del Bierzo wine coop.
The Cooperativa Viñas del Bierzo was started in 1963 and was the first wine coop in the El Bierzo region. It now has over 900 members, making wines under the control of the Denominacíon de Origen Bierzo; it has enough capacity to store more than 10 million liters of wine in stainless steel tanks and actually produces about 5-6 million liters a year. Their oldest brand “Naraya” was followed by “Valmagaz,” “Marqués de Cornatel,” and their flagship brand “Gran Bierzo,” aged in wood.
We got sellos: “Viñas del Bierzo Sociedad Cooperativa - Trae, peregrino, tu pan y [cuecito] vino, que con pan y vino se [amia or anima?] el camino” [Bring, pilgrim, your bread and [cuecito] wine, because the Camino is [encouraged, cheered up] with bread and wine].
10:29 AM – Camponaraya: Viñas del Bierzo wine coop – sculpture with grape picker (and Camino shell and pilgrim staff, with gourd, on base). Pink [bottle] sign behind it says: “Pilgrim Stop: Rest Area, Tasting Wine + Pinchos, Guided Tours, Souvenirs, Toilets, Credencials/Sellos.”
10:30 AM – Camponaraya: Viñas del Bierzo wine coop – MT my main building closest to road, where we went in.
10:30 AM – Camponaraya: Viñas del Bierzo wine coop – MT by entrance to main building (close up).
10:34 AM – Camponaraya: Viñas del Bierzo wine coop – MT with her credencial, at table with wine and empenadas.
10:41 AM – Camponaraya: Viñas del Bierzo wine coop – stainless steel wine tanks on way to baño; sign at rear points to “Servicios Toilets.”
10:45 AM – Camponaraya: Viñas del Bierzo wine coop – MT by stainless steel wine tanks.
After Camponaraya, MT walked and talked for a while with 2 young ladies from Italy. As we walked through vineyards, we picked sweet red grapes. Don only took a few and ate them while walking.
11:19 AM – After Camponaraya: MT on road by vineyard with Italian girls; puddles of rainwater (but not raining now).
11:26 AM - After Camponaraya: MT and Italian girls; approaching sign for 3-star Hotel Villa de Cacabelos.
11:27 AM - After Camponaraya: sign for 3-star Hotel Villa de Cacabelos with prices (double room 52€ including breakfast buffet [we got that last year for only 42€]).
11:29 AM – After Camponaraya: red grapes, ready to pick.
11:29 AM – After Camponaraya: white grapes, on next vine.
11:30 AM – After Camponaraya: grape-picking machine (made by New Holland).
Just before Cacabelos, we took a break in a rest area (with fountain) to eat MT’s picked grapes and our apple and peach. We met a German couple (____ and Erwin) from Bamberg. They had started their Camino from Bamberg (where the Jakobsweg passed near their house) 6 years ago, doing part of the Camino each year, and hoped to get to Santiago this year.
Around 12:20, we came to Cacabelos (pop 5,000).
Cacabelos is a town in the heart of the wine and fruit-growing region of El Bierzo (excellent full-bodied wines, but hardly known outside Spain, made primarily from the Mencia grape). Cacabelos is one of the Galician-speaking municipalities in León.
The oldest trace of the settlement of Cacabelos goes back to the Paleolithic Age, as evidenced by stone artifacts found on the banks of the river Cúa, just to the north of the present Cacabelos. There are also artifacts of the pre-Roman (Celtic) castro [fortified settlement] culture of the Bronze Age and the Second Iron Age, of the nearby Castro Ventosa (remains of which can still be seen on a hill southwest of Cacabelos) and Castro La Edrada.
The most abundant archaeological remains are from the Roman epoch. The Roman wars against the Asturians and Galicians (29-19 BC) concluded with the taking of the Castro Ventosa, which it is believed was the site of the original Celtic city of Bergidum. (The place name Bergida or Bergidum was of Celtic origin and alluded to one of the old castros, Casrtrum Bergidum, which is regarded as the birthplace of El Bierzo.) The settlement was later transferred to the present site of Cacabelos, which Romans called Bergida Flavium or Bergidum Flavium. This was an important Roman villa near which became the administrative center of the numerous gold deposits that the Romans exploited in El Bierzo.
In the 5th century, the Suevi (Swabians), who then occupied the area, included the Christian community of Bergido in the Diocese of Astorga. In the 6th century, this territory was annexed by the Visigoths, and there was a Visigothic settlement on the site of this villa. Bergido did not disappear with the Muslim invasion in the early 8th century, although its name disappeared. Instead, documents began to refer to an important nucleus with the name of Ventosa, which survived into the 9th century and early 10th century, continuing to serve as the berciana [Bierzo] capital until its total depopulation and the destruction of its walls in the 13th century.
At the time when Ventosa declined into complete abandonment and neglect, there occurred on the other hand the birth and development of Cacabelos, which was first mentioned by that name in 992 during the foundation of the nearby Monasterio de Carracedo. The villa, next to a bridge on the Camino route, grew continuously during the Middle Ages. It was an important medieval pilgrim halt with 5 pilgrim hospitals and 4 churches.
By the 19th century, Cacabelos was one of the wine-producing centers in the El Bierzo region. However, late in that century, the crisis of phylloxera destroyed most of the vineyards. Only well into the 20th century were the vineyards recovered with American grafts. This would lead to the emergence of many important bodegas (wine cellars) and a wine cooperative.
The first church we encountered was the tiny Ermita de San Roque, where we got sellos.
12:28 PM – Cacabelos: Ermita de San Roque, where we got sellos – MT and another pilgrim in doorway.
In 1590, a member of the local gentry rebuilt the Ermita de la Vera Cruz [Chapel of the True Cross]. A few years later, after the deadly plague of 1599, its patron would change the name to Ermita de San Roque. Since then, it has been necessary to rebuild it “fundamentally” several times, the last being in 1789. Inside, next to the image of San Roque, there are two polychrome wood reliefs of the 18th century, representing San Gil de Casayo and San Herberto de Cerdeña, both from the nearby Monasterio de Carracedo.
12:30 PM – Cacabelos: Ermita de San Roque – altar with San Roque.
12:30 PM – Cacabelos: Ermita de San Roque – altar with San Roque (telephoto, 46 mm).
In the center of town was the Iglesia de Santa María de la Plaza.
12:38 PM – Cacabelos: Iglesia de Santa María de la Plaza – façade and bell tower.
The Iglesia de Santa María de la Plaza was consecrated in 1108, but was almost completely rebuilt in the 16th century. Only the Romanesque apse remains from the original church. Subsequently, it has undergone several major renovations, such as the construction of a new neo-Romanesque tower in 1904. It conserves the 17th-century Baroque image of the Virgen de La Asunción. Above the tympanum of its main entrance is a rustic Romanesque image of Nuestra Señora de la Edrada from the 13th century.
On the way out of town, we passed a small park with an (apparently old) wine press on display.
12:45 PM – Cacabelos: wine press (view from end with screw and counterweight).
12:46 PM – Cacabelos: sign for “Lagar de Vino” (Wine Press); English part of text: “18th-19th century wine press. A traditional apparatus constructed for the pressing of grapes to obtain the must used in the elaboration of wine.
“The Press is composed of a large articulated chestnut-wood beam with spindle and weight which facilitates the movement and pressing of the grapes into the deposit.
“Diagram showing functioning method.”
Callouts (Spanish only) in the diagram, from left to right: “PILO donde se recoge el mosto” [trough where the must is gathered]; arrow showing downward motion of left end of beam, below it “LAGARETA de prensado con uva” [(small) press of pressing with grape]; arrow showing upward movement of right end of the beam (“VIGA” [beam]) on “HUSO”[spindle] and below it men turning the screw over the “PIENSO o CONTRAPESO” [ ___ or counterweight].
12:47 PM – Cacabelos: wine press (view from end with trough for gathering must).
1804c MT Monday, September 15, 2014, 1246 PM – Cacabelos: Don at left end of wine press.
At the far end of Cacabelos, we came to the Santuario de las Angustias.
12:48 PM – Cacabelos: MT crossing street to Santuario de las Angustias, with municipal albergue to right of church.
The 18th-century Santuario de Nuestra Señora de la Quinta Angustia [Sanctuary of Our Lady of the Fifth Sorrow] (on occasion called Capilla de las Angustias) is on the site of an earlier chapel and pilgrim hospice. The current building, as well as most of its altarpieces, sculptures, and paintings, are from the 18th century. In the camarin [vestry?], there is the image of the Virgen de la Quinta Angustia [Virgin of the Fifth Anguish] from 1764, known as the Virgen Negra [Black Virgin], since it represents Mother Earth. Now the municipal albergue is next to it (el Hospital de Santiago was documented there as early as 1271).
After Cacabelos, we continued along the N-120 highway on a gravel track (senda).
12:59 PM – After Cacabelos: vineyards on hills.
Along the gravel track, we soon saw the first of two copies of the same sign advertising a special rate for pilgrims at the Parador in Villafranca del Bierzo.
1:24 PM – After Cacabelos: sign for Parador in Villafranca del Bierzo: “Special Rate for Pilgrims … Double room with buffet breakfast 78€.”
1:55 PM – After Cacabelos: more hills and city (Villafranca del Bierzo) on horizon in distance, with mountains beyond it.
1:55 PM – After Cacabelos: more vineyards.
1:56 PM – After Cacabelos: cows (one on right with cowbell).
After Pieros (pop 28), a tiny village at the west end of Cacabelos, the Camino seemed to follow the paved road, often with little shoulder, and a lot of curves. Finally, it veered off to the right onto a dirt track, which seemed to take a LONG way around right into Villafranca del Bierzo. However, this was a pleasant route through vineyards, away from the highway.
1:56 PM – After Pieros: place where we were to right turn off the paved road.
1:56 PM – After Pieros: arrows (marked with red ovals) for right turn off the paved road and camino markers on other side of road (one with yellow arrow).
We passed more vineyards, one being harvested the old-fashioned way (the hotel clerk in Ponferrada said workers were paid 50€ a day to pick grapes).
2:04 PM – After Pieros: vineyard with manual grape picking.
2:04 PM – After Pieros: tractor pulling trailer with picked grapes (telephoto, 260 mm).
2:24 PM – After Pieros: first clear view of Villafranca del Bierzo in distance.
We finally arrived in Villafranca del Bierzo (pop 3,500 in municipality, 2,417 in town) around 2:35.
Although there is archaeological evidence of a settlement that was already important in pre-Roman and Roman times, Villafranca del Bierzo is believed to have been founded by French monks of the Cluny order in the early 11th century. In 1070, they built a monastery here called el Monasterio de Santa María de Cluniaco during the years following the discovery of Santiago’s body in 813 in order to service the needs of the many pilgrims who passed this way. This place was the “antechamber” to the narrow valley of the Río Valcarce, next to the bridge over the Río Burbia. Since the monks were French, they and French pilgrims who chose to remain here gave the village the name Villa francorum (town of the French), which eventually gave way to the Spanish version Villafranca. For several centuries, there were two magistrates in the town: one for the Franks and one for the rest of the town. Since there was more than one of these French villages named Villafranca along the Camino, this one became known as Villafranca del Bierzo. It once had as many as 8 monasteries and 6 pilgrim hospitals. Villafranca was in itself a destination for some of Santiago’s pilgrims. In the 12th century, the Bishop of Astorga obtained a papal bull to found a church (Iglesia de Santiago) here, where concheiros (pilgrims with conch shells) unable to continue on the pilgrimage route to Santiago could obtain the same indulgence. In 1486, the Catholic Monarchs (Fernando and Isabela) granted lordship of the town to the Marqueses de Villafranca del Bierzo. In the 17th and 18th centuries, it was also the religious capital of El Bierzo; the Iglesia de Santa María was exempt from the jurisdiction of Astorga.
In 1808, Villafranca was the headquarters of the Army of Galicia. During the War of Independence (1808-1814), it was sacked three times by the British and was also plundered by the French. In 1810, it became the center of operations for the retaking of Astorga by General Santoclides.
In 1822, the Province of Villafranca del Bierzo (aka Provincia del Vierzo) was created, with Villafranca as its capital. However, this lasted only a decade, because the new administrative division of Spain in 1833 decreed that this territory would be shared between the new provinces of Orense and León. The city of Villafranca was in the part that went to León, and by the early 20th century it was the one of the three largest centers of population and importance in the province, along with the capital (León) and Astorga.
This is the last major town along the Camino in León. Most pilgrims spend the night here before tackling the climb up into the mountains and Galicia the next morning. It is the historical capital of the El Bierzo region (although Ponferrada is now the capital of the comarca of El Bierzo).
At the edge of town, we stopped at the Iglesia de Santiago Apostól.
The Romanesque Iglesia de Santiago Apostól [Church of St. James the Apostle] was begun in 1186. It is a very simple church, built with uneven stones. It has a single rectangular nave, a single semicircular apse, and is noted for its overall austerity. One exception is its north entrance, the famous Puerta del Perdón (Door of Forgiveness). This church is an example of the transition from the Romanesque of the late 12th century and the incipient Gothic of the 13th. The Baroque chapel and lateral sacristy were added in the 18th century. In the last restoration of the church, Roman remains were discovered at the end of the church, including a cistern from the 2nd century AD.
2:38 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Iglesia de Santiago – apse exterior with Puerta del Perdón of right (N) side.
The small, semicircular apse has three beautiful Romanesque windows, formed with the technique of “taqueado jaqués.”
2:38 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Iglesia de Santiago – Romanesque windows with jacqués taqueado archivolts (Cropped).
Jaqués taqueado (or jaqués ajedrezado [checkered]) is a type of ornamentation found in friezes and archivolts of doors and windows, mainly based on either square (called tacos [blocks]) or rectangles (called billetes [tickets]) alternatingly sunken and projecting, in parallel lines, at least three in number. The resulting shadows simulate a chessboard, from which part of the name comes. However, the term jaqués taqueado is more related to the abundance of this decoration on the Cathedral of Jaca (late 11th century), and from there it would spread to other religious buildings along the Camino de Santiago. Thus, it can be said that this decorative motif, which in various versions is very common in Spanish Romanesque architecture, especially in the buildings of the Camino route, including San Martín de Fromista and the Basilica de San Isidoro in León.
2:40 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Iglesia de Santiago – MT and Don at Puerta del Perdón (showing all of portal).
The Puerta del Perdón [Door of Forgiveness] is open only in Jacobean Holy Years to offer the Jubileo [Jubilee indulgence] to pilgrims unable to complete the route to Santiago. The tradition dates back to 1122, when the Pope granted this privilege, decreeing that medieval pilgrims unable to continue to Santiago due to illness or injury could receive absolution here the same as they would in Santiago, if they confessed and received communion on their knees on the steps of this door. This was a sort of consolation prize for those exhausted pilgrims who could not make it over the mountains. For this reason, Villafranca del Bierzo was sometimes referred to as the “other” or “little” Santiago.
This door is richly ornamented with floral, geometric motifs and biblical scenes decorating the pointed arches. It has four archivolts: the inner two are plain, the third has plant motifs, and the 4th has figures of Apostles, with Christ Pantocrator (in Majesty) at the peak. The archivolts rest on capitals representing the Crucifixion, the Three Kings, the Epiphany, acanthus leaves, and fantastic animals. During the 19th and 20th centuries, the door was boarded up due to pests and to protect the church from assaults.
2:40 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Iglesia de Santiago – MT and Don at Puerta del Perdón (focused more on us).
2:41 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Iglesia de Santiago – MT talking with lady who took photos for us, by Puerta del Perdón on N side of church.
2:41 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Iglesia de Santiago – façade, with Puerta del Perdón on side.
The main façade on the west side has a portal consisting of a round arch, with three archivolts unsupported by columns and undecorated. Above the door is a window that illuminates the church. Above it all is a bell gable with two openings, added later than the construction of the building.
6:22 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: view of Iglesia de Santiago, from Iglesia de San Francisco across valley (telephoto, 122 mm).
From Iglesia de Santiago, we had a good view of Monasterio de San Francisco across the valley (and vice versa).
2:42 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Monasterio de San Francisco (view across valley from Iglesia de Santiago) (telephoto, 90 mm).
Next, we passed the Castillo (Palacio) de los Marqueses.
The Castillo (Palacio) de los Marqueses with its distinctive turrets, was built by the Marqueses de Villafranca in the 15th and 16th centuries over the remains of a previous castle that had been destroyed in 1507. The elegant, sinuous shapes of the castle reveal its inspiration from the medieval palaces of the French aristocracy. Thus, it resembles a Castillo-Palacio [castle-palace] more than a Castillo-Fortaleza [castle-fort or fortified castle]. It is quadrangular and has towers on its four corners. Although the castle is mainly built of masonry, the area around the front door is made of brick, with a coat of arms above it (one of several around the exterior).
Unfortunately, the castle was sacked and partially dismantled (the original towers were destroyed by fire) by the British Army as it marched towards Lugo in 1809 during the Peninsula War (War of Independence) and again, but by French troops this time, between 1815 and 1819. Over the intervening centuries, the castle has undergone some restoration. However, the overall structure of the castle has been maintained in good condition, preserving its immaculate masonry walls and distinctive slate spires, and it continues to be the home of the Marqueses de Villafranca.
2:45 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Castillo Palacio de los Marqueses (left side).
2:46 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Castillo Palacio de los Marqueses (right side).
6:24 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: view of Castillo Palacio de los Marqueses (back side), from Iglesia de San Francisco across valley (telephoto, 54 mm).
After the Castillo Palacio de los Marqueses, the Camino route turned to the right, but we turned left off the Camino (around behind the castle) to look for the Parador de Villafranca del Bierzo.
Along the path, we had seen signs (and photographed one [see photo above]) offering a double room at 78€ including buffet breakfast. However, the desk clerk said their best (pilgrim) rate was 78€ without breakfast and 97.--€ with breakfast. Aside from that, this parador was not in a historic building like the others we had seen, but was just a modern hotel.*
*After we returned home, MT emailed the contact on www.parador.es about the problem we had, and we got a reply from the head of customer service of the Parador headquarters in Madrid apologizing, saying that these were old signs that should have been taken down, and offering to give us a premium room at the Villafranca Parador at the 78€ rate (as if we go there all the time).
Paradors are government-run hotels, classified from 3 to 5 stars. Many of the nearly 90 paradors are converted castles, palaces, or monasteries, although some have been purpose-built at strategic tourist locations.
So we went on to look for what Brierley listed as Hostel Burbia (in text with correct address at Calle Fuente Cubero, 13) or Casa Burbia (which Brierley’s map showed on the far side of the Río Burbia river). Not finding any camino arrows, we asked directions (several times) and first found Bar Burbia in the location Brierley marked as “Casa Burbia” by crossing a bridge over Río Burbia (on the Camino route) and turning right. Finally, at 3:30, we found Hostal Burbia several blocks to the northwest, in the vicinity of a different bridge over Río Burbia, but on the near side of the river.
Villafranca del Bierzo: map showing Bar Burbia (at red rectangle) and Hostal Burbia (in red circle) (Google map at https://www.google.com/maps/@42.6101179,-6.8106182,18z).
6:35 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Hostal Burbia – from street side (Calle Fuente Cubero).
At Hostal Burbia, we got a double room with bath for 48€, including breakfast. We showered, washed clothes, and hung them in the window.
In 791, the famous Batalla del río Burbia [Battle of the Burbia River] took place near the Burbia river, possibly in what is now Villafranca del Bierzo.
Map of Iberian Peninsula in 814 (es.wikipedia.org).
At that time, the Emirate of Córdoba controlled almost all of the Iberian Peninsula, except for the Kingdom of Asturias in the northwest, Vasconia (the Basque Country) toward the northeast, and what would soon become the Marca Hispánica [known in English as the Spanish March or March of Barcelona] in the far northeast (which Charlemagne created in 795 as a defensive barrier between the Moors in the Iberian Peninsula and the rest of his Imperio Carolingio [Carolingian Empire]).
After a time of peace during the reign of King Mauregato of Asturias, the new Emir, Hisham I, undertook raids against the neighboring Christian kingdoms with the intention of annexing them. He organized two armies, one to conquer the area of Galicia (in the western part of Asturias) and the other for the eastern part of Asturias and Vasconia. As the army of the northwest returned with the spoils of its raiding and looting in Galicia, Christian forces of the Kingdom of Asturias, led by King Bermudo I, took up positions around the confluence of the Burbia and Valcarce rivers, hoping the Muslims would be tired and distracted. The Muslims managed to fend off the ambush and inflicted a crushing defeat on the Asturian forces. This was one of the biggest defeats the Christians suffered since the beginning of the Reconquista with Don Pelayo. The defeat caused Bermudo to abdicate in favor of Alfonso II (great-grandson of Pelayo) and to return to his former monastic life. Alfonso had to move his capital north to Oviedo. This defeat also forced the postponement of the Reconquista for many years.
3:42 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Hostal Burbia – Don’s Keen walking shoes, showing more wear.
3:46 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Hostal Burbia – our room, with window overlooking river.
3:47 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Hostal Burbia – our room.
3:47 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Hostal Burbia – view of Río Burbia from our window.
One reason Don had placed this at the top of his list of accommodations in Villafranca was that the hostal’s website said “next to río Burbia, where the peaceful river water murmur will make you sleep very well.” That was true.
6:36 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Hostal Burbia – from river side (our laundry in open window toward upper right); part of Iglesia Colegiata at far right.
6:36 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Hostal Burbia – view from far side of Río Burbia back across to Hostal Burbia and Iglesia Colegiata (from bridge near Plaza de La Xirula).
While MT rested, Don went out to recon for restaurants and churches.
He first came to the nearby church Colegiata de Santa María.
5:59 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Colegiata de Santa María – apse exterior and tower.
The Colegiata de Santa María (de Cluny or del Cluniaco) [Collegiate Church of St. Mary (of Cluny)] was built in the mid-16th century, over the remains of the 11th-century Monasterio de Santa María de Cluny (possibly built in 1070). The decline of the monastery began in the early 14th century, linked to a decline in pilgrimages. Although the monastery was still standing in the 16th century, it had lost all its material and spiritual splendor. In 1529, therefore, at the request of Don Pedro de Toledo (Marquis of Villafranca and also Viceroy of Naples), the abbey of monks became a college of canons, and began to build a church in the manner of the great Roman basilicas. Although begun in the 16th century, part of its construction was delayed over the next two centuries, and the church remains unfinished even today (as can be seen at the foot of the church). Therefore, it has a mix of architectural styles. The Colegiata is the flagship of the Spanish late Gothic, although its structure suggests a strong Renaissance and mostly Baroque influence. It has three naves and a polygonal apse (with 5 unequal sides), covered by an amazing network of vaults and slate domes.
5:59 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: sign for Iglesia “Colegiata de Santa María”; Spanish text [translated: Its construction was begun in the first third of the 16th century, by Pedro de Toledo, second marquis de Villafranca and Viceroy of Naples. The Collegiate Church is located on the old 11th-century monastery of the French order of Cluny. It was built under a late Gothic [style] with Renaissance and Baroque elements, since its construction occupied several centuries: 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries. Its floorplan has three naves divided into sections. Highlights are its choir, from the second half of the 18th century, made of chestnut wood, its vaults and cupola of stone, and its imposing columns. Its side chapels include the Trinity and its altarpiece from the 16th century, with crucería [transept?] vault. It possesses a valuable crucifix of the 16th century which, together with the 17th-century carving of Ecce Homo, is carried in processions in Holy Week. It was declared a Bien de Interés Cultural (BIC) in 2000.]
A Bien de Interés Cultural (BIC) is a category of the Spanish heritage register. This category dates from 1985, when it replaced the former heritage category of Monumento nacional (national monument) in order to extend protection to a wider range of cultural property. Monumentos are now identified as one of the sub-categories of BIC. The term literally means "Good (in the sense of economics) of Cultural Interest," although a better translation could be "Heritage of Cultural Interest," since Spain now protects not only material heritage, like monuments or movable works of art, but also intangible cultural heritage. An example of intangible cultural heritage which now enjoys protection is the Solbo Gomero language. Some Bienes enjoy international protection as World Heritage Sites or Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity.
6:02 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Colegiata de Santa María – unfinished E front (foot) and part of S side.
There was no mass here or at any of the churches near the center of town (which were all closed), possibly due to the Fiestas del Cristo holiday, September 12-15, 2014.
Tuesday, September 16, 2014, 940 AM – Villafranca del Bierzo – poster for Fiestas del Cristo, showing gigantes (giants), with Don Quixote and Sancho Panza in foreground, on the balcony in front of Convento de San Nicolás.
The Fiestas del Cristo [Festivals of Christ] are held in honor of “nuestro Santisimo Cristo de la Esperanza” [our Holy Christ of Hope], patron of Villafranca del Bierzo and of the comarca of El Bierzo. These festivals are celebrated on September 14 and extend 2 or 3 days. Their origin dates back to the 17th century, when a local nobleman donated a statue of Christ, called “de la Esperanza,” carved in ebony, to preside over an altarpiece in the church of the Convento de San Nicolás el Real. This carving replaced the previous patron San Sebastian.
The celebration is highlighted by pasacalles (processions) with the Christ figure through the streets of the town, accompanied by municipal bands (including those of other towns, especially in Galicia), figures of giants (representing Don Quixote, Sancho Panza, Dulcinea, El Cid, and others) dancing to bagpipes, and the local Real Cofradia del Santisimo Cristo de la Esperanza [Royal Brotherhood of the Holy Christ of Hope]. During this time, there are special masses in Iglesia de San Nicolás el Real in the patron’s honor. Throughout the days of the festivals, various events are scheduled, including games (mainly for children in the Jardín de la Alameda), sports, bands, and all types of artistic expression.
Don then came to the Jardín de la Alameda [garden of the poplar grove or shaded walk] park, where there were amusement rides and games for children, as well as other festivities.
Next, Don came to the Convento de San Nicolás el Real.
6:06 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Convento de San Nicolás el Real – façade, with balcony at top of steps; at lower left is one of the amusement rides in the Plaza de Diego Saavedro at the S end of Jardín de la Alameda.
The Iglesia y Colegio de San Nicolás el Real [Church and School of St. Nicholas the Royal] is located in the historic center of the city, on the site of an old Jesuit school of the 17th century. The church captivates admirers with its magnificent size and its sense of balance and harmony. It was inspired by one of the key buildings of the Italian Renaissance, the Church of Gesu in Rome.
Construction of the complex began in 1620 with the convento (monastery) and colegio (school), although the church is a bit later, toward the middle of the 17th century, and the façade and cloister even later, possibly from the late 17th or 18th century, showing Galician influences. The façade has two bodies separated by a cornice and topped with a pediment with the emblem of the Society of Jesus (Jesuits). The church is at the center of the complex and was supposed to have a cloister on both sides, although only the right wing was built. The church is in the form of a Latin Cross, with the nave divided into several sections.
In 1767, the Jesuits were expelled, although classes continued to be taught. The former parish of San Nicolás, whose church burned in a fire, moved into this church. In 1822, it was used as the headquarters of the Provincial Council when Villafranca became the capital of a province of the same name. Subsequently, it passed to the heirs of the nobleman who had funded its foundation. They sold it in 1899 to the Vincentians, who converted it back into a school that operated until 1983; now it houses a Museum of Natural Sciences.
6:07 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: sign for “Convento de San Nicolás el Real”; Spanish text [translated: It was founded in 1620; it was a college of the Society of Jesus and headquarters of the Provincial Council in 1828, and is currently managed by Paulist {Vincentian} fathers since 1899. Highlights are its cloister and its church with three naves—the central nave exceeds the others in height, and the lateral naves have blind chapels. Its altarpiece is Baroque from the year 1699 with religious images of the Society of Jesus; in the first body of the altarpiece, in the center, is the Cristo de la Esperanza {Christ of Hope}, the patron of Villafranca, a carving from the beginning of the 17th century; in a side altar to the right of the {main} altar is another Baroque altarpiece dedicated to Saint Vincent de Paul. Declared a BIC in 2008.]
Next, Don found several good restaurants in the Plaza Mayor with menus and took photos to show to MT.
6:11 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: menu for Bar-Restaurante “El Casino” (where we ended up eating and also got a paper copy of the menu) in Spanish and English with 10€ menú del día.
6:13 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: menu for Restaurante Sevilla with Spanish and English.
6:15 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: menu for Cafetería Compostela in Spanish and English, with 10€ menú del día.
6:15 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: E side of Plaza Mayor with umbrellas for (left to right) Bar-Restaurante “El Casino," Restaurante Sevilla, and Cafetería Compostela.
6:17 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Café Bar Rincón de Coco at S end of E side of Plaza Mayor, with (short, with no choices) menus at 7, 8, and 9€.
6:17 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Café Bar Rincón de Coco - 9€ menu (for comparable price and because the first 2 courses were gazpacho and merluza a la plancha con ensalada [grilled hake with salad], which sounded good; it also came with bebida y postre [drink and desert]).
6:17 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: (plastic-covered) menu for [Hotel] Plaza Bar Restaurante at S end of Plaza Mayor, with a 7.50€ menú del día, but with no choices: 1st course pasta con tomate [pasta with tomato (sauce)], 2nd pechuga plancha con patatas y ensalada [grilled (chicken) breast with potatoes and salad]; bebida, postre o café [drink, desert or coffee]; behind the plastic, there was also an ala carte menu (in Spanish and [partly covered] English).
Just past Plaza Mayor, Don found Iglesia de San Francisco.
6:20 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Iglesia de San Francisco – steps, west façade, and one tower.
Iglesia de San Francisco (aka Monasterio de San Francisco) is very close to Iglesia de Santiago (across a valley) and located on one of the highest points of the city. It is said to have been founded by St. Francis of Assisi during his pilgrimage to Santiago (1214); others say it was founded by Queen Doña Urraca in 1213. The church had originally been part of one of the pilgrim hospitals in town but was moved to its current location in 1285. The church has clearly Romanesque elements, both in its general structure and in its sturdy portal. The oldest part is the Romanesque portal in the first body of the main (west) façade; it has a semicircular arch with four archivolts. The second body of the façade and the two high towers are Baroque from the 17th century. However, some structural elements show Gothic lines, such as the apse, built during the expansion of the second half of the 15th century. The interior shows Baroque influence, particularly in the Churrigueresque (Spanish Baroque) altarpiece. A beautiful Plateresque choir reflects the austerity of the Franciscan order.
6:19 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: sign for “Iglesia de San Francisco”; Spanish text [translated: The church is the only thing that is preserved from a Franciscan monastery founded in the 13th century; the portal of access to the church is Romanesque of transition from the end of the 13th century; the second body of the façade is from the 17th century and houses a vaulted niche with San Francisco {St. Francis}. Around 1450, a reform was carried out in the apse of the church, in Gothic style and under the reign of Enrique {Henry} IV; it has a Mudéjar coffered ceiling of the 15th century, considered the largest of northwest Spain, occupying the whole nave. The choir, in a high place, dates from the 16th century, as do two chapels that open to the right, at the entrance to the church. Several sepulchers of interest can be seen in the church. Its altarpiece in Baroque of the 17th century and is notable for its height. This church contains abundant religious images of the Holy Week in Villafranca. Declared a BIC in 1993.]
2:42 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Iglesia de San Francisco – view from Iglesia de Santiago across valley, showing the Gothic apse that is taller and higher up on the hill than the rest of the church (telephoto, 90 mm).
Don climbed all those steps to the church only find out that it, too, was locked up. However, from the height on which Iglesia de San Francisco is perched, there were great views across the valley to the south and west.
6:21 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: view of Iglesia de Santiago, across valley from Iglesia de San Francisco.
6:22 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: view of Iglesia de Santiago, from Iglesia de San Francisco across valley (telephoto, 112 mm).
6:24 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: view of Castillo Palacio de los Marqueses (back side), from Iglesia de San Francisco across valley (telephoto, 54 mm).
6:26 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: view from Iglesia de San Francisco toward Río Burbia and mountains, where we would be headed the next day.
At 7:15, we went to Bar-Restaurante “El Casino” for their 10€ menu: 1st course: MT Lacón con Pimientos del Bierzo (Typical Pork with Bierzo Peppers)/Don Ensalada Mixta Casino con Vinagreta Balsámica (Casino Mixed Salad with Balsamic Vinaigrette); 2nd course: MT Salmón a la Plancha con Ensalada (Grilled Salmon with Salad)/Don Pechuga de Pollo con Patatas Fritas (Grilled Chicken Breasts with French Fries [substituted salad]); dessert: both had Helado (cup of vanilla and chocolate ice cream); bottle of Bierzo red wine; bread.
7:34 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Bar-Restaurante “El Casino” – Bierzo wine, bread, and Don’s mixed salad.
8:25 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Bar-Restaurante “El Casino” – MT at table in foreground.
On the way back to Hostal Burbia, we went through the Jardín de la Alameda park with amusement rides and games.
Then (8:40), at the end of the block from the hostal, we came into the Plaza de la Xirula, where earlier we had seen some tables set up and apparent signs of food preparation on our way to the restaurant. Now, a lot more people were gathering, and we saw men making a giant paella in a large (est. 9- to 10-ft-diameter) pan over gas-burners. This was apparently something this neighborhood did on the last evening of the Fiestas del Cristo. They stirred it with large paddles and occasionally dumped in large pots of ingredients. We asked a man what was going on, and he said we needed to stay for when they served it to the whole crowd FREE. Around 9 pm, when the paella was about done, the men and women covered it with a cloth; at 9:15 they removed the cloth and started serving generous portions on large Styrofoam platters. We each got a plateful and took them back to the hostal room to eat; after having eaten a 3-course dinner already, we got very full (but it was very good).
8:40 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Plaza de la Xirula – giant paella – cooking with gas, man adjusting gas tank.
8:41 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Plaza de la Xirula – giant paella – men dumping in more ingredients.
8:44 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Plaza de la Xirula – giant paella – men dumping in more ingredients (looks like mussels).
8:45 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Plaza de la Xirula – giant paella – man spreading mussels on ladle.
8:45 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Plaza de la Xirula – giant paella – adding more ingredients (looks like more mussels).
8:46 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Plaza de la Xirula – giant paella – man dipping out a ladle of mussels.
8:50 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Plaza de la Xirula – giant paella – letting everything cook.
8:53 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Plaza de la Xirula – giant paella – stirring the pot.
8:53 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Plaza de la Xirula – giant paella – stirring the pot from the other side.
8:54 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Plaza de la Xirula – giant paella – another man stirring the pot.
8:55 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Plaza de la Xirula – giant paella – letting everything cook some more.
8:56 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Plaza de la Xirula – giant paella – stirring the pot again.
8:56 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Plaza de la Xirula – giant paella – letting it cook some more.
8:57 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Plaza de la Xirula – giant paella – two men stirring the pot again.
8:57 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Plaza de la Xirula – giant paella – two men stirring the pot again.
8:59 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Plaza de la Xirula – giant paella – letting it cook some more.
9:00 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Plaza de la Xirula –crowd in square waiting for giant paella.
9:02 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Plaza de la Xirula – staves and wooden paddles over giant paella; man making final test with ladle; women ready to cover it with cloth.
9:03 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Plaza de la Xirula – giant paella covered with cloth.
9:14 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Plaza de la Xirula – giant paella with cloth, staves, and wooden paddles removed.
9:15 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Plaza de la Xirula – giant paella – starting to ladle it onto large Styrofoam platters.
9:19 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: Plaza de la Xirula – MT with our two servings of paella.
9:24 PM – Villafranca del Bierzo: back in our room at Hostal Burbia –our two servings of paella.
Since there were no places to sit and eat in the plaza, we took our platters of paella back to our room at nearby Hostal Burbia. Even though we had already eaten a 3-course meal (between 7:30 and 8:30 pm), we managed to eat most of the paella (except for the part with feelers). We could still hear the music from Plaza de la Xirula; MT recognized two of the songs from her zumba classes.
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