Wednesday, September 3, 2014 – Boadilla del Camino to Villalcázar de Sirga

(On Sep 1, Don had started getting a sore spot where his backpack waist belt rubbed on his lower spine. On Sep 2, he grabbed a T-shirt from the pack and stuffed it inside the waist belt. On the morning of Sep 3, MT used a cloth doubled up and pinned inside the backpack waist belt; that seemed to help.)

7:13 AM – Boadilla del Camino: sunrise.

We ate breakfast at Albergue En el Camino (3.20€ each): 2 toast with margarine and jam; 2 orange juice; coffee/hot chocolate.

7:37 AM – Boadilla del Camino: MT and owner of Albergue/Hotel En el Camino.

We departed at 8 am.

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‏‎8:38 AM – After Boadilla del Camino: our long shadows on path with arrows on Camino markers.

We continued through the Tierra de Campos to the Canal de Castilla. From near Boadilla del Camino to Frómista, for about 3 km the Camino follows a peaceful tree-lined path, the old canal towpath, beside the canal’s Northern Branch. Near Frómista, we crossed over the canal at the uppermost flight of lock gates (esclusa), now disused.

The Canal de Castilla, constructed in the last half of the 18th century and the first half of the 19th century, runs through the provinces of Palencia, Burgos, Palencia again, and Valladolid. Similar in shape to an inverted “Y,” the canal stretches 207 km (129 mi), and has three branches. The Northern Branch flows all the way from Alar del Rey (Palencia) on the Río Pisuerga in the northeast, briefly into Burgos, then back into Palencia and past Frómista, after which, a few kilometers north of the capital of Palencia, the canal forks into two branches: the Campos Branch leading northwest and then southwest to Medina de Rioseco, and the Southern Branch leading south through Dueñas (where it rejoins the Río Pisuerga) and then on to Valladolid to the southwest. While the modern Canal Pisuerga (farther west) was designed exclusively for irrigation purposes, this 18th-century canal provided transportation of the cultivated crops as well as power to turn the corn mills. With the advent of highways, it is now restricted to irrigation and leisure. There is a plan to restore the canal system with its original 50 locks.

‏‎8:39 AM – Canal de Castilla: MT on Camino path alongside canal.

‏‎9:00 AM – Canal de Castilla: sunflower field on other side of path.

‏‎9:01 AM – Canal de Castilla: biker taking water break on path by sunflower field.

‏‎9:01 AM – Canal de Castilla: sunflower field (telephoto, 360 mm).

‏‎9:17 AM – Canal de Castilla: sign for “canal de castilla – Ramal Norte [Northern Branch] – Frómista” – map marked with “Ud está aquí” [You are here] 0.5 km from Frómista; text reads: “Frómista es un importante nudo de comunicaciones y uno de los focos patrimoniales de mayor interés de la provincia. Aquí se cruzan el Canal de Castilla y el Camino de Santiago. Ya en 1066 es favorecida por la reina doña Mayor que dota la iglesia y monasterio de San Martin, santo de peregrinos. En 1118 la reina Urracha lo entrega a los benedictinos de Carrión. Por ello durante siglos la jurisdicción de Frómista estuvo dividida entre los señores de la villa y el abad de Carrión, de la Orden de Cluny, circunstancia que provocará numerosos conflictos. En 1427 Gómez Benavides, señor de Frómista, logra reunificar la jurisdicción y, en compensación, funda el monasterio de Nuestra Señora de la Miserecordia.

“Fue el Camino Jacobeo quien definió Frómista durante este periodo. Su iglesia de San Martín es uno de los iconos de la ruta, siendo conicida por su bella composición y decoración, y por haber sido rehabilitada a finales del siglo XIX. Otro interesante templo de la localidad es la iglesia de San Pedro, de factura gótica. Su torre contrasta con la delicada portada renacentista realizada en 1560. Su interior contiene interesantes tallas góticas y barrocas. Frómista cuenta, además con la iglesia de Santa María del Castillo, de estilo gótico con presencia de portadas renacentistas. Su poliptico de 29 tablas de estilo hispano-flamenco se custodia hoy en San Pedro. Por último, es de destacar la Ermita del Otero, igualmente gótica aunque reformada en el siglo XVIII. Guarda la imagen románica de la Virgen que le da nombre.

“Otro monumento destacado de la localidad lo constituye el grupo de cuarto esclusas (de la 17 a la 20) que salvan el mayor desnivel de todo el Canal de Castilla. Además, en el Término de Frómista se localiza otra esclusa, la número 21.”

[Frómista is an important communications hub and one of the hereditary foci of greatest interest in the province. Here the Canal of Castile and the Camino de Santiago cross. Already in 1066 it was favored by the queen Doña Mayor, who endowed the church and monastery of San Martin, Saint of pilgrims. In 1118 Queen Urracha delivered it to the Benedictines of Carrión. That is why for centuries the jurisdiction of Frómista was divided between the Lords of the village and the Abbot of Carrión, of the Order of Cluny, circumstances which would result in numerous conflicts. In 1427 Gómez Benavides, Lord of Frómista, managed to reunite the jurisdiction and, in compensation, he founded the monastery of our Lady of the Miserecordia.

It was the Jacobean Way that defined Frómista during this period. The Church of San Martín is one of the icons of the route, being known for its beautiful composition and design, and having been restored at the end of the 19th century. Another interesting temple in the town is the Church of San Pedro, built in the Gothic style. Its tower contrasts with the delicate Renaissance portal made in 1560. Its interior contains interesting Gothic and Baroque carvings. Frómista also has the Church of Santa María del Castillo, in the Gothic style with Renaissance presence in the portals. Its polyptych of 29 tables of Hispano-Flemish style is guarded today in San Pedro. Finally, it is important to note the Ermita del Otero, also Gothic but renovated in the 18th century. It preserves the Romanesque image of the Virgin that gives it its name.

Another prominent monument of the town is the fourth group of locks (17 to 20) preserving the greatest unevenness {of water level} of the Canal de Castilla. In addition, another lock, the number 21, is located in the terminal of Frómista.]

‏‎9:18 AM – Canal de Castilla: MT on path approaching large lock.

‏‎9:19 AM – Canal de Castilla: large lock with bridge to cross on foot.

‏‎9:20 AM – Canal de Castilla: locks from footbridge (vertical).

‏‎9:20 AM – Canal de Castilla: locks from footbridge (horizontal).

‎9:21 AM – Canal de Castilla: view back toward lock and footbridge (from S).

9:24 AM – Canal de Castilla: Don on footbridge (from S).

9:22 AM – Canal de Castilla: MT and canal to S (from S of footbridge).

‏‎9:24 AM – Canal de Castilla: MT on footbridge (from N).

‏‎9:25 AM – Canal de Castilla: another sign for “canal de castilla”: information about vegetation and climate at bottom of sign.

Text at top left is about construction of the canal:

“El Canal de Castilla es una de las más importantes obras le ingenieria de España. Concebido por el Marqués de la Ensenada, este proyecto pretendía crear una red de comunicatión fluvial que sirviera para distribuir los cerales castellanos por el reino. El ambicioso plan preveía 4 grandes canales que unieran Reinosa (Cantabria) con El Espinar (Segovia). De ellos se completaron plenamente el Ramal Sur y el de Campos; el Ramal Norte se quedó en Alar del Rey, mientras que el Canal de Segovia nunca se ejecutó. Las obras se iniciaron en 1753 y continuaron intermitentemente a cargo del erario público hasta 1804. En 1831 se concede la explotación del Canal a una empresa privada con el compromiso de finalizar las obras, que concluyen en 1849. En total se construyeron 207 km en forma de Y invertida a través de las provincias de Palencia, Burgos y Valladolid. Después de 70 años de gestión privada, ya en decadencia a causa del desarollo del ferrocarril, vuelve al Estado recayendo la responsibilidad desde entonces en la Confederacion Hidrográfica del Duero. En 1959 el Canal se cierra a la navigación convertiéndose en un gran conducción de riego y en fuerza motriz para harineras y pequeñas centrales hidroeléctricas. En la actualidad también se utilaza su cauce para el abastecimiento de numerosos núcleos de población ribereños, includas las capitales provinciales de Palencia y Valladolid. En 1991 el Canal de Castilla es declarado Bien de Interés Cultural con categoria de Conjunto Histórico.”

[The Canal de Castilla is one of the most important engineering works in Spain. Conceived by the Marqués de la Ensenada, this project aimed to create a network of fluvial communication that would serve to distribute the Castilian cereals for the Kingdom. The ambitious plan envisaged 4 great canals that would unite Reinosa (Cantabria) with El Espinar (Segovia). Of them, only the Southern Branch and Campos Branch were fully completed; the Northern Branch ended at Alar del Rey, while the channel to Segovia was never executed. The works began in 1753 and continued intermittently, in charge of the Public Treasury, until 1804. In 1831, the development of the canal was granted to a private company with a commitment to complete the works, which concluded in 1849. In total, 207 km were constructed in the form of an inverted Y, through the provinces of Palencia, Burgos, and Valladolid. After 70 years of private management, already in decline because of the development of railways, responsibility returned to the State, since then under the Hydrographic Confederation of the Duero River Basin. In 1959 the Canal closed to navigation, being converted into one great source of irrigation and power for flour mills and small hydroelectric power plants. Today its channel is also used for supplying numerous population centers along it {with water}, including the provincial capitals of Palencia and Valladolid. In 1991 the Canal de Castilla was declared a Bien de Interés Cultural {site of cultural interest} in the Historical category.]

In the top center is an old photo of lock gates 17 to 20 with accompanying text at top right: “Frómista es visita obligada en el recorrido del Canal. A la importancia histórica y artistica de la localidad se suma su spectacular salto de cuatro esclusas. Este conjunto salva el mayor desnivel del Canal. 14,20 metros, e incluye dos puentes, uno atraversado por el Camino de Santiago y otro, el de San Telmo, por donde cruza el ferrocarril. A escasa distancia aguas abajo se localiza la esclusa 21 donde se levantó en el siglo XIX una de las harineras más prósperas de todo el Canal.”

[Frómista is a must-see visit in travelling the Canal. The historical and artistic significance of the town is linked to its spectacular jump of four locks. This set involves the greatest difference in level of the Canal, 14.20 m, and includes two bridges, one traversed by the Camino de Santiago and another, that of San Telmo, where the railway crosses. A short distance downstream is lock 21, which was erected in the 19th century where one of the most prosperous flour mills of the whole Canal was located.]

The lock at Frómista once had four separate lock gates allowing boats to descend and ascend the 14.2-meter elevation difference between the top and the bottom.

‏‎925 AM – Canal de Castilla: old photo of lock gates 17 to 20 from that sign for “canal de castilla” (cropped).

Between the Canal de Castilla and Frómista, the Camino route departed the canal and followed a highway, where we saw an interesting metal sculpture of a pilgrim.

‏‎10:08 AM – Before Frómista: metal statue of pilgrim (cutout, with other part of statue peeking through).

10:07 AM – Before Frómista: metal statue of pilgrim (with MT in cutout).

We stopped at Frómista (pop 800) around 10 am at a supermercado for fruit and sunscreen (3.99€ for tube) and at a farmácia (pharmacy) for Benefibra (vice Metamucil, 11.02€). We did not go to any of the churches, etc. in Frómista, since we had seen them in 2013.

The town of Frómista is perfectly situated in the middle of a rich agricultural region and during Roman times was considered to be the bread basket of the Roman Empire. The Romans named it Frumentum, which is Latin for cereal. Although a small town, it contains two national monuments: the 11th-century Iglesia de San Martín de Tours (consecrated in 1066, reputedly one of the finest examples of pure Romanesque in Spain) and the Iglesia Santa María del Castillo (documented from 1206, although the current building is from the 16th century). However, the main parish church in the town is the 15th-century Iglesia de San Pedro in Gothic style. The importance of Frómista to the Camino is evident in the fact that there were several pilgrim hospitals here in medieval times.

We passed through Población de Campos (pop 150). As we left the town, we encountered the first crucero of this Camino.

‏‎11:03 AM - Leaving Población de Campos: MT on path just past end of town, with twin Camino marker posts and a simple crucero (crucifix).

A crucero (cruceiro in Galician) is a stone monument topped by a cross. They may be found in crossroads, villages, cemeteries, and many more places. In most cases, the purpose of their construction was to obtain graces, give thanks for blessings, ask for a healing miracle, perform penance, or protect crops or farm animals. However, they also fulfilled the mission of guiding pilgrims or other travelers or of identifying the boundaries of parishes, properties, or jurisdictions (in the latter sense, their function was similar to that of a jurisdictional rollo).

Some were erected to remember tragic events; sometimes they served a purely ornamental function. Probably the Galician cruceiro originated in Ireland during the 6th and 7th centuries on the occasion of the Christianization of Celtic symbols; then they were sermons in stone used to educate Christian people with scenes from the Bible. It is believed that Irish pilgrims brought this tradition to Galicia through the Camino de Santiago during the 11th and 12th centuries, although the first ones they built bore little resemblance to those currently populating the Camino, especially in Galicia where there are more than 10,000. In Galicia, they had representations of the Passion of Christ, the expulsion from Paradise, and in some cases the purging of souls in purgatory; they also showed love represented by the Virgin and the pain of the crucified Christ. Gradually, they developed steps (platform) on which pilgrims could rest at a crossroads; this may be topped by a short pedestal (base) which may be decorated with motifs related to Christ’s Passion (nails, hammer, tongs). At a later time, the fuste (staff, shaft, or stem; the part of a column between the base and the capital) was incorporated, thus mimicking a processional cross; this, like the base may contain motifs related to the Passion of Christ, or the serpent, Adam and Eve, or saints. Atop the stem, there may be a capital, often decorated with flowers, the faces of cherubs, sculls, or acanthus leaves or sometimes taking the form of a small chapel. The main part is the cross at the top, usually with the crucifixion of Jesus on the face and Mary’s sorrow (pieta) or a sorrowful Virgin and Child on the other side. Although some authors defend the existence of Romanesque versions, the real birth of the cruceiro occurred during the Gothic period. The oldest example we can see on the Camino, in Melide, originated in the 14th century. There were not always yellow arrows to point the direction from the crossroads, and the cruceiros were much more permanent.

Diagram of Cruceiro with parts labeled: Plataforma [platform], Base-Pedestal, Fuste [staff, shaft, stem, or varal], Capitel [capital], and Cruz [cross] (recursosparaelcamino.blogspot.com).

We arrived in Revenga de Campos (pop 166) around 11:40 am.

As the story goes, Revenga de Campos was founded in the 10th century. The name Revenga likely comes from “revenia humeclecense,” meaning a rather wet place. It was founded in the 10th century and documented as early as 935 as “Revendica.” In ancient times, it was known as Revenga del Camino.

‏‎11:39 AM – Revenga de Campos: sign entering town.

‏‎11:40 AM – Revenga de Campos: MT by sign entering town.

11:42 AM – Revenga de Campos: Mural of pilgrim on path (to Santiago?).

‎11:43 AM – Revenga de Campos: Many different Camino signs (official sign with “Precaución Tramo Comun con P-980” [Caution – Stretch in common with Palencia Hwy P-980]; cross, scallop shell and “Buen Camino” on side of building; and weathervane-like pilgrim and yellow arrow on fence post).

‏‎11:44 AM – Revenga de Campos: weathervane-like pilgrim and yellow arrow (close-up).

‏‎11:46 AM – Revenga de Campos: sign on bar for Mahou beer “Companero de Camino” [Companion of the Camino] showing distance remaining from Revenga de Campos as 425 km [these signs were not always accurate], with painted yellow arrow.

11:46 AM – Revenga de Campos: house with flowers (we noticed we could see ourselves in reflection of door glass).

‏‎11:47 AM – Revenga de Campos: MT and Don reflected in door glass (telephoto, 112 mm).

‏‎11:49 AM – Revenga de Campos: van “Hielos Palencia – Cubitos de Hielo” delivering ice cubes to Bar Angeles  parked in front of house with flowers nextdoor.

Before visiting Iglesia de San Lorenzo, we stopped at Bar Angeles for 2 very long bocadillos (MT cheese/Don ham) and agua del grifo (water from the faucet, which the young lady served with ice cubes delivered by van because the local water had too much calcium).

‏‎11:59 AM – Revenga de Campos: Bar Angeles – waitress with bag of ice cubes (hielo en cubitos) she brought it out for us to see.

‏‎12:08 PM – Revenga de Campos: Bar Angeles – our bocadillos (ca. 1-1.50€).

Then we visited Iglesia de San Lorenzo, and got sellos.

The Iglesia de San Lorenzo was built in the 12th century and remodeled in the 16th century in the Baroque style. It has altarpieces from the 17th and 18th centuries. Its highlight is the 15th-century image of the Virgen del Peregrino (Virgin of the Pilgrim).

‎12:32 PM – Revenga de Campos: square with pilgrim statue (left) and Iglesia de San Lorenzo.

‏‎12:34 PM – Revenga de Campos: pilgrim statue with signs for Iglesia de Santiago (12th-16th century, open, with sello). On the curb at left is tail of yellow arrow for Camino route.

11:53 AM – Revenga de Campos: MT and Don with metal pilgrim statue near Iglesia de San Lorenzo (see signs at left).

‏‎12:47 PM – Revenga de Campos: Iglesia de San Lorenzo – bell tower and side with (newer) entrance.

‏‎12:32 PM – Revenga de Campos: Iglesia de San Lorenzo – bell tower with stork nests and 2 storks (telephoto, 220 mm).

‏‎12:42 PM – Revenga de Campos: Iglesia de San Lorenzo – neoclassical (left) side altar in crossing dedicated to San Luis (at top is San Lorenzo with his grate).

‏‎12:42 PM – Revenga de Campos: Iglesia de San Lorenzo – San Lorenzo with his grate (at top of left side altar) (cropped).

12:43 PM – Revenga de Campos: Iglesia de San Lorenzo – neoclassical side altar in crossing at left front (St. Anthony of Padua, patron saint of the town).

The main altar (1766) has reliefs of the life of San Lorenzo in the predela (base) and statues of San Pedro and San Pablo (Peter and Paul) flanking San Lorenzo in the center. In the attic at the top are figures of San Roque, the Assumption, and San Juan Bautista (St. John the Baptist).

‏‎12:44 PM – Revenga de Campos: Iglesia de San Lorenzo – main altar.

We departed Revenga de Campos around 12:50 pm. Almost immediately, we could see Villarmentero de Campos, then Villalcázar de Sirga ahead.

‏‎12:52 PM – Leaving Revenga de Campos: MT crossing road by end of town sign.

‏‎12:53 PM – Leaving Revenga de Campos: MT on path along highway, with stone Camino marker and crucero (at turnoff for alternative route through Villovieco, with Villarmentero de Campos in distance on left); deer-crossing sign says “Recuerdo” [Remember].

We stopped for 7 minutes in a rest area at the end of Villarmentero de Campos (pop 19) to eat our fruit and re-pin the cloth on Don’s backpack.

‏‎1:29 PM – After Villarmentero de Campos: MT at another crucero.

‏‎2:07 PM - Approaching Villalcázar de Sirga: MT on path at early view of town on right.

‏‎2:07 PM - Approaching Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María la Blanca (telephoto, 307 mm).

‏‎2:14 PM - Approaching Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María la Blanca (more telephoto, 360 mm).

We arrived at Villalcázar de Sirga (pop 200) around 2:20 pm.

The origin of Villalcázar de Sirga was in the Roman settlements around the Ermita de la Virgen del Río (Chapel of the Virgin of the River) on the Río Ucieza, 1.3 km southeast of the present town. Already in 1069 documentation, this town is cited as “Villasirga.” The name derived from the Latin noun villa (villa, farm) and the Spanish sirga (towrope. path), referring to the old Visigoth road passing through the town. The medieval name of “Villasirga” was witnessed in the Cantigas [songs of troubadours] of Alfonso X el Sabio (the Wise) and other documents from the 11th century (referring to Señores de Villasirga).

In 1135, the Knights Templar on their return from Jerusalem, with the help of Cistercians, began to build what would be the only protection in Castilla y León in the Middle Ages. It was completed by 1196, and would be the residence and logistics center of the Templars. This fortress extended 300 m to the north of the church. Debris from the fortress was used to build the road between Frómista and Carrión in 1860.

In the 13th century, the Camino was re-routed through here because the Cantigas of Alfonso X continuously mentioned the miracles performed by the Virgen Blanca. The name Villasirga would remain until the mid-15th century, when new residents of the former Templar Ecomienda (Commandery) began to call it Villa Alcázar (the latter part from the Arabic Quars, meaning castle or fortress) and then Villalcázar de Sirga because of the appearance of the fortified church the Templars built here in the 12th and 13th centuries. (The local inhabitants became known as alcazareños.) From then on it would be called in either of two modes. Starting around 1661, both names appeared in official documents. Today, mail and documents use Villalcázar de Sirga, and the shorter Villasigra is the more common popular usage. Both names include the Sirga, now referring to the Camino de Santiago trail (La Sirga Jacobea) passing through the town.

With the disappearance of the Templars in 1312, the San Juanistas (Knights of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem) were heirs, especially catering to pilgrims and the sick in their hospitals and hospices—including the pilgrim hospital in Villalcázar de Sirga.

On entering the town, we tried Hostal Infante Doña Leonor, where we had stayed last year and liked it. The door was locked, and a sign on it said to check at Bar Hostal Los Cantigas, where the bartender finally got a young lady to take us to Hostal Infante Doña Leonor to get registered. We got a double room for 40€ (although the price list posted at the reception desk said €45), plus 5€ for breakfast at the bar (she gave us tickets for the breakfast). We got sellos at the hostal.

‏‎2:20 PM - Villalcázar de Sirga: Hostal Infanta Doña Leonor exterior front.

‏‎5:28 PM - Villalcázar de Sirga: Hostal Infanta Doña Leonor price list by reception desk (listing double room as 45€).

‏‎4:03 PM - Villalcázar de Sirga: Hostal Infanta Doña Leonor– outside of door to our room No. 2 “Torrodoldo.”

The Alto de Torredoldo, or Tierra de Oldo, is a hill half a kilometer from the town, named after the Noble Godo Oldo, founder of the town of Villoldo, 10 km away.

2:41 PM - Villalcázar de Sirga: Hostal Infanta Doña Leonor – our room No. 2 “Torrodoldo” on 1st (US 2nd) floor.

‏‎2:42 PM - Villalcázar de Sirga: Hostal Infanta Doña Leonor – MT in our room No. 2 “Torrodoldo.”

We checked for mass times at Iglesia de Santa María la Blanca, but found no sign at the door about whether there was mass there that day. So he had ice cream at Bar Hostal Los Cantigas, just as we had last year. Then we washed clothes and hung them on portable clothesline in terraza (veranda) behind Hostal Infanta Doña Leonor.

Then we went to visit 13th-century Templar church Iglesia de Santa María la Blanca (admission 1€ each). We got sellos there.

The building of the Iglesia de Santa María la Blanca began in the final years of the 12th century, in the transition from ogival Romanesque to Gothic, and its main structure was completed in the last third of 13th century. The Knights Templar, protectors of pilgrims they directed to holy places, constructed a fortified church in praise of Santa María with the aid of the Cistercians. It took the form of a Latin cross (some describe it as an archepiscopal cross [with two bars], with a double transept, due to the thickness of the lateral arms). It had twin towers at the ends of the main transept (one tower is partly preserved on its north side). Its austere exterior confers certain aspects of an alcázar (fortress, castle), in contrast to the splendor of the interior. After the dissolution of the Knights Templar in Spain in 1312, Santa Maria de Villasirga (as it was then called) was ceded to Don Rodrigo Rodriguez de Girón (Señor de Villasirga) and then to the Manrique family in 1433. In this (14th) century, some extensions and additions were made, including the Chapel of Santiago. In the 1664, the church was ceded to the diocese of Palencia.

The huge church we see today is what remains of a much larger building, which was damaged by the earthquake of Lisbon in 1755 and by Napoleon’s troops during the Napoleonic Wars. The church is now about 25 % smaller than it was in the 18th century. As a delayed consequence of the earthquake, the wall that enclosed the foot of the church collapsed in 1888, and two years later a simple bare wall was erected with stones from the collapsed wall. As a result. The church lost 7 to 9 meters of its length, including what was the main (west) façade, with the Puerta del Ángel (a sculptural jewel worthy of a cathedral and praised by ancient travelers and pilgrims), many of whose carvings (probably including the statue of the Virgen la Blanca from its mullion) were relocated to other areas of the building. Also lost in this collapse were the choir, and the atrium with its narthex. At some time, the church also lost its two crenelated terrazas and the twin towers over the main crossing.

Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia Santa Maria la Blanca – diagram of current layout . Spanish text translates as: Este folleto le guía en su visita = This brochure will guide you on your tour; 1. Capilla Santiago = Chapel of Santiago; 2. V. Cantigas = Virgen de las Cantigas; 3 Felipe = [tomb of Infante] Felipe; 4. Leonor = [tomb of] Leonor [actually of Inés]; 5. Caballero = [tomb of] knight; 6. A. Mayor = main altar; 7. A. Santiago = Altar of Santiago; 8. Pórtico Sur_Acceso = south portico_entrance (scanned from brochure).

‏‎5:20 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Lamp on Mesón de los Templarios; Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca exterior - tower on north side and west end.

A semicircular sentry box that remains atop a buttress of the north façade (visible in the above photo) was one of the defensive features of the fortified church. This sentry box may indicate there the Templar fortress was attached to the church. The northern entrance, now walled up, could have been for the Templar monks.

‏‎5:20 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca – sentry box (see red circle) above buttress of north façade.

‏‎5:15 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca exterior – west end and south side, from near Mesón de Villasirga.

‏‎4:30 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca – exterior, south side, from Hostal-Bar Las Cantigas (where we ate ice cream under the canopy).

The south portico is particularly noteworthy. Under the current vault with pointed arches is the main portal with five pointed archivolts decorated with 51 figures of saints, angels, priests, nobles, and other characters with musical instruments under a canopy. On the wall above the main portal is the Gothic double frieze in high relief. 

The lateral and adjacent door, which shares the same corner and previously provided entry to the Chapel of Santiago through the west wall of the south transept, is a smaller copy of the other, with 3 archivolts and 25 figures. There is no frieze above it.

Both portals are protected by a grand portico with a pointed arch, the same height as the central nave. This is apparently the conserved part of a major extension that surrounded the church, like a cloister, or formed a slender narthex of a porticoed atrium extending to the now destroyed west portal. This disappeared portico was probably prolonged with a series of arches of lower height than the one preserved.

4:34 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca – Don on steps to south portal.

‏‎4:32 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca – south portal arch, friezes, and door.

‏‎4:33 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca – frieze and archivolts over door.

‏‎4:34 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca – close-up of double frieze above door of south portal.

The upper frieze represents the Last Judgment with Christ the Pantocrator (Cristo Majestad) flanked by the Evangelists and the Apostles in the heavenly Jerusalem; among the apostles is the figure of Santiago dressed as a pilgrim.

There is a legend that says that, on the day of the vernal equinox, the sun shines on the figure of the bull (Luke) next to the Pantocrator in the upper frieze and the mouths of the two heads that appear in the same frieze will indicate the exact location of a treasure hidden by the Templars.

The lower frieze is dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgen Blanca de Villasirga (one of the three Gothic seated “Blancas” in polychromed stone, together with the Main Altar and the Altar of the Cantigas), flanked (on the left) by the Adoration of the Magi (with the closest one genuflecting) and (on the right) by St. Joseph and the Annunciation (with the archangel Gabriel appearing before the expectant Mary).

All the figures (except the Pantocrator) are located under trefoil arches on columns.

‏‎4:34 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca – MT and south main portal.

‏‎4:36 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca – main portal with 5 archivolts.

At the end of the crossing on the epistle (right, south) side of the nave is the Capilla de Santiago, added in the early 14th century, originally belonging to the Knights of the Order of Santiago, but later rebuilt by the Knights of San Marcos(Caballeros de San Marcos de León). The now walled-up door permitted direct access by the Knights of San Marcos. This space is illuminated by a beautiful rosette, which also sheds light on the whole interior of the church.

Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca – Chapel of Santiago – three tombs (https://www.flickr.com/photos/rayporres/5189534193/).

The chapel houses three Gothic tombs. The tombs of Infante Felipe and his wife Inés, made in the last quarter of the 13th century, were moved here in 1936 from their original location in the church’s nave (or choir). They are supported by four lions and two eagles and are notable for their representation of the deceased in a recumbent pose and richly dressed. The sculptural richness is of both tombs is accented by their 13th-century polychrome covering, which is largely preserved. The sides of both tombs are decorated with scenes of mourning, funeral procession, and burial under arches and are bordered with a series of heraldic shields.

The largest of the three is the tomb of the Infante Felipe de Castilla y Suavia (Phillip of Castile and Swabia, died 1274), fifth son of Fernando III el Santo [the saint] and Beatriz de Suabia and brother of Alfonso X el Sabio [the wise]; he was born in 1231 and became an abbot and archbishop-elect of Seville until 1258, when he left his ecclesiastical career with the consent of his brother, King Alfonso X and married Christina of Norway, who died in 1262; he then married Inés Rodríguez Girón, who died in 1265; he then married Leonor Ruiz de Castro (aka Leonor Rodríguez de Castro), who died in 1274. At that time, his remains were buried in Villadiego (of Burgos), before being moved to this, the most sumptuous building the Templars possessed in Spain. His tomb is decorated with his family’s heraldic motifs alternating with cross of the Knights Templar, of which he was a great patron and may have been a member. The Infante is clad in tunic, cap, and cloak; in one hand, he holds his sword and in the other a hawk (a symbol of the nobility, which practiced the art of falconry).

Felipe’s tomb is behind the equally elaborate tomb of his second wife Inés Rodríguez Girón [according to Wikipedia and other Internet sources, due to the presence on her tomb of the coats of arms of the Girón family; however, a brochure from the church and www.turismocastillayleon.com identify this as the tomb of his third and last wife Doña Leonor Ruiz de Castro (per other Internet sources, she is actually buried in the Convent of San Felices de Amaya, although the tomb here was once thought to be hers).

The third tomb (behind the others) is later, from the second quarter of the 14th century; it is the tomb of Juan de Pereira, a Knight of the Order of Santiago, who is also represented in a recumbent pose, although this tomb is much simpler than the other two. (According to some sources, this is the tomb of Juan Perez, the last of the Templar masters of Villasirga.) The emblems on this tomb feature the red cross of the Order of Santiago and emblems of Aragón, and presumably of his family.

Also, several Gothic images of the Virgin are located in this chapel, including a mutilated one called Virgen de las Cantigas from the 13th century, seated with the Child in her arms and accompanied by angels (ángeles turiferarios). This was formerly called Virgen Villasirga, but is not to be confused with the more famous one on the main altar. However, she is called Virgen de las Cantigas because this is the one of which Alfonso X wrote. Also found in this chapel are other images of the Virgin, probably all from the 13th century.

‏‎4:56 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca – Don in nave and view across nave to Chapel of Santiago with rose window.

‏‎4:39 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca – Chapel of Santiago (focus on rose window).

‏‎4:40 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca – Chapel of Santiago – near side of tomb of Inés in foreground. Behind it are the tomb of Infante Felipe (barely visible from this angle), the statue of Virgen de las Cantigas (left) and another Virgin (right).

Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca – Chapel of Santiago – back side of tomb of Inés, with bishops among mourners (villalcazardesirga.es).

Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca – Chapel of Santiago – side of tomb of Infante Felipe, with burial procession (villalcazardesirga.es).

Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca – Chapel of Santiago – foot of tomb of Infante Felipe (villalcazardesirga.es).

Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca – Chapel of Santiago – head of tomb of Infante Felipe and its back side with burial procession; tomb of Inés in background (villalcazardesirga.es).

‏‎4:40 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca – Chapel of Santiago – 13th-century statue of Virgen de las Cantigas with her right arm and the Child’s head missing; angels above her shoulders.

Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca – Chapel of Santiago – 13th-century statue of Virgen de las Cantigas with her right arm and the Child’s head missing; angels above her shoulders (villalcazardesirga.es).

On the gospel (left, north) side of the nave, opposite the entrance, is the Altarpiece of Santiago, Plateresque Renaissance from 1530, with 11 painted panels of scenes narrated in the Codex Calixtinus depicting the life and miracles of the saint. Among these are his meeting with Jesus, the conversion of the magician Hermógenes, his subsequent ministry, martyrdom, and the funeral cortege transferring the body of the Apostle to Galicia and sabotaged by Queen Lupa. It is presided over by a sculpture of Santiago Peregrino (16th century) that was formerly in the Chapel of Santiago.

‏‎4:44 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca – Altarpiece of Santiago (straight on, with reflections on lower left panels).

‎Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca – Altarpiece of Santiago (from right side, with reflections on lower right panels) (villalcazardesirga.es).

4:42 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca – Altarpiece of Santiago (close-up of Santiago Peregrino statue).

The altarpiece of the Main Altarpiece has parts made at different times. The oldest part (at the top) is a scene of Calvary with 3 carvings (Crucified Christ, St. Mary and St. John), which is Gothic from around 1300. Around 1503, a small altarpiece was emplaced, composed of the 8 largest tables at the sides of the Virgin. In 1526, the first predela (base) was added, with scenes of the Virgin and the infancy of Jesus. The altar was completed in 1546, after the height of the presbytery (altar) was lowered, making room for an additional predela at the bottom, with low reliefs of impressive realism.

In its final form, the altar has 27 Hispano-Flamenco style tables from the late 15th or early 16th century, representing saints, scenes from saints’ lives, and Gospel passages. The niche in the center is occupied by the Virgen Blanca (aka Virgen de Villasirga aka Santa Maria la Blanca), a polychromed Gothic sculpture of the 13th century with the Virgin seated with the Child in her arms. This statue, to which many miracles are ascribed, is also known as Virgen de las Cantigas. That is because Alfonso X dedicated 40 Cantigas (troubadour poems) to praising her miracles, 5 of which refer to pilgrims. Above the statue are funerary angels and a canopy with a long spire.

‏‎4:50 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca – view of nave, from choir toward main altar.

‏‎5:01 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca – main altar.

Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca – main altar (illuminated) (villalcazardesirga.es).

Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca – close-up of Virgen La Blanca on main altar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/rayporres/5189494477/).

To the left of the main altar is the Gothic plasterwork pulpit from the 16th century. One side of it (front) has a relief of Santiago Peregrino.

‏‎4:46 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca – pulpit on left front pillar of nave.

4:59 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca – front of pulpit with relief of Santiago Peregrino in center.

To the far left, near the front, is a statue of Alfonso X, near a display of the Book of Cantigas. At the extreme left front is the baptismal font, which dates from the 16th century.

‏‎4:44 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca – statue of King Alfonso X, seated with book [of Cantigas].

‏‎4:45 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca – book of Cantigas in display case at left front.

‏‎4:46 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca – baptismal font and paschal candle.

At the back of the nave, to the right of the main portal was a relief of a knight set into a niche in the wall (behind glass). On the right part of the back wall was an unidentified statue and 3 heads over a small metal square (door?).

‏‎4:51 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca – relief of knight in wall niche, behind glass, inside of main portal to right.

On the wall near the holy water font by the south entrance is a beautiful votive stone found below the Main Altar when the altarpiece was disassembled for cleaning in the 1940s. It appears to represent a Knight of Alcántara according to the pear tree (peral silvestre, wild pear) on the shield and harness.

This military order was founded in 1156 under the Portuguese name of Ordem de São Julião do Pereiro (Orden de San Julian de Pereiro in Spanish) since it was originally formed by a group of knights from Salamanca fighting the Moors around the Ermita de San Julián del Pereiro near the city of Rodrigo, which today is in Portugal. In 1177, it was established in the Kingdom of León during the reign of Ferdinand II. In 1218, King Alfonso IX of León entrusted the defense of the city of Alcántara (today on the border with Portugal) to the Knights of San Julian de Pereiro, who had reconquered it from the Muslims. Following the establishment of its headquarters in that village, the order’s primitive name “of San Julian” gradually changed to “of Alcántara.” The order adopted the Cistercian rule. King Ferdinand III (el Santo), son of Alfonso IX and father of Infante Felipe, granted further possessions to the order.

The height of the lady at the left is disproportionate, since it equals that of the knight and horse together. But there seems to be a charming blush on her cheeks, and an ingenuous rigidity of folds and figures. There are details of realism, such as the nails of the horseshoes, and it preserves the remains of a deteriorated inscription, still not deciphered, due to being covered by the cement that fixed the stone to the wall.

‏‎4:53 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca – statue and 3 heads over small metal square (door?) on back (west) wall.

Just a few meters from the recessed stone with knight and lady, on the west wall next to the choir, is a statue of the Savior with the parchment of the Old Testament in hand. It is a beautiful carving of the 13th century. As are almost all of those of the church.

The man selling tickets for visiting the church and giving sellos first told us there would be a mass there at 7 pm; then later he said the priest called and said he couldn’t make it. There was no illumination in the church; it cost 1€ to light up an altar.

Thursday, ‎September ‎04, ‎2014, ‏‎8:30 AM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca – exterior east (apse) end.

The church has three rectangular apses at the ends of its three tall naves. Flanking those are two polygonal apses. Thus, there are five chapels across the interior of the apse end of the church, each with a window.

After the church, MT went back to the hostal, and Don looked around town, first walking around the other sides of Iglesia de Santa María Blanca. 

Around 5:15, he got to Mesón de Villasirga (where we had eaten last year with “Freddie” and the musicians from the guitar concert). At that time, a group of people were sitting outside the entrance, apparently the family that runs it. Even though a sign posted on the door said dinner from Monday through Thursday was “por encargo” (by appointment), the white-haired man told Don to come back around 8:30, and waiter said they had 14€ dinner menu. Don saw a menu of specialties on the door, which was closed. Don understood (wrongly) that items listed on the door were part of that menu. This looked like what we had eaten with Freddie, including morcilla (blood sausage) and lechazo asado (roast suckling lamb), A few minutes later, the family had disappeared. The temperature at 6:25 pm was 86˚ F.

;

‏‎724 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Iglesia de Santa María La Blanca north tower, rear (west) end, and portico with Chapel of Santiago entrance (at right)—beyond Mesón de Villasirga, in the middle of an intersection, with Pablo Payo statue at end of street to right, facing Plaza Mayor.

Pablo Payo and his wife Dominga started the Mesón de Villasirga in 1965 in an old granary from the 17th century. In 1984, Pablo started a new establishment, called Mesón Los Templarios, situated in front of the first. In 1990, he was given the title “Mesonero Mayor del Camino de Santiago” (Best Innkeeper of the Camino de Santiago) by the Federación de Asociaciones de Amigos del Camino de Santiago. He died 14 April 2003. In 2005, the monument to his memory was dedicated by the President of the Junta de Castilla y León, representing Pablo receiving pilgrims, clients, and friends on the Plaza Mayor of the town, in his traditional form, his pitcher of wine and bowl of soup.

Thursday, ‎September ‎04, ‎2014, ‏‎8:32 AM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Pablo Payo statue at table near front of Mesón de Villasirga.

Thursday, ‎September ‎04, ‎2014, ‏‎8:32 AM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Pablo Payo statue at table near front of Mesón de Villasirga (closer up).

‏‎5:15 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: sign on table by statue: “Pablo Payo Mesonero Mayor del Camino de Santiago,” with Braille version.

‏‎5:19 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Mesón de Villasirga with owner family outside entrance.

‏‎5:17 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Mesón de Villasirga – partly covered list of specialties on door (waiter said dinner menu was 14€). At top left, under “Pablo el Mesenero,” the sign showed both Mesón de Villasirga and Mesón de los Templarios. At the bottom, it says “Comidas y cenas a la antigua usanza medieval” [Lunches and dinners according to the ancient medieval custom].

‏‎5:21 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Mesón de Villasirga (no people, only Pablo).

‏‎5:19 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Mesón de los Templarios (diagonally across Plaza Mayor from Mesón de Villasirga).

‏‎5:19 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Mesón de los Templarios – sign to right of front door: “Antiguo Hospital Templario de los Peregrinos” [Ancient Templar Hospital for Pilgrims].

‏‎5:23 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Hostal-Bar Las Cantigas (building on right and terraza under canopy).

‏‎5:24 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Hostal Infanta Doña Leonor – exterior, back (north) side with gate to fenced private terraza (veranda) with garden.

‎Thursday, ‎September ‎04, ‎2014, 8:31 AM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Hostal Infanta Doña Leonor – back door into living room from garden.

5:15 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Hostal Infanta Doña Leonor - view from back door toward gate of fenced terraza.

‏‎5:24 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Hostal Infanta Doña Leonor – our laundry near table on terraza.

‏‎5:26 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Hostal Infanta Doña Leonor – MT at table in terraza by our laundry.

‏‎5:25 PM – Villalcázar de Sirga: Hostal Infanta Doña Leonor – living room area of ground (US 1st) floor, just inside the back door.

At 8:30 pm, we went to Mesón de Villalcázar, stopping at the statue of Pablo Payo before entering.

‏‎8:33 PM - Villalcázar de Sirga: MT sharing a cup of wine with Pablo Payo outside Mesón de Villalcázar.

‏‎8:33 PM - Villalcázar de Sirga: Don sharing a cup of wine with Pablo Payo outside Mesón de Villalcázar.

We were the first customers for dinner at Mesón de Villalcázar; we got sellos: “Pablo El Mesonero de Villalcázar de Sirga - Palencia.” Later, a young couple ate at a table near us (he seemed to be part of the family), and another pilgrim or tourist couple came. We ordered the 14€ menu (NOT the specialties Don had seen advertised on the door): 1st course: MT vegetable [soup]/Don sopa castillana (Castilian soup with ham and chorizo); 2nd course: both had grilled salmon (with salad vice fries); dessert: both had arroz con leche (rice pudding); a pitcher of red wine; pitcher of water; [no bread]. Later, the white-haired man from the afternoon walked around the dining room asking the guests how they were doing. When we paid, the owner (middle-aged man who served us) gave us a “Pablo el Mesero de Villasirga” mug to take.

‏‎8:36 PM - Villalcázar de Sirga: Mesón de Villalcázar –dining room (entrance was behind curtain at left).

‏‎8:36 PM - Villalcázar de Sirga: Mesón de Villalcázar – view from our table toward kitchen (door at left).

‏‎8:42 PM - Villalcázar de Sirga: Mesón de Villalcázar – Don and MT at our table, with traditional bibs and pitchers of wine and water, under [coatrack] in shape of old wooden pitchforks (the owner took photo).

‏‎8:57 PM - Villalcázar de Sirga: Mesón de Villalcázar Don eating sopa castillana with wooden spoon.

(Earlier, in the grocery store, we bought bananas and 4 yogurts, and the owner gave us each a cookie.)